It seems my trusty DV10 has had a piston ring let go and consequently needs a re-ring. I've been told
the engine will have to come out of the boat ( which I can organise ), but where do I take it to get the job
done ?. I can get the parts sent to me so I can choose whomever, so any suggestions in the Sydney area ?
Are the guys at Tarren Point to be trusted ?. What do you think.
What is the repair going to cost as opposed to a new engine?
New engines are very cheap at present.
If a ring has gone there's a good chance other stuff - bearings etc - will be at or close to end of service life. By the time you remove, strip and rebuild to spec you might be better off getting one of the reco Bukh engines of the same model that Bukh offer. Makes sense if you're going to keep the boat for any length of time. And replacing with the same model means you won't have to change mounts etc.
I've never rebuilt a DV10 but I believe they're difficult (= time consuming) to get timed correctly.
Select to expand quotesamsturdy said..
It seems my trusty DV10 has had a piston ring let go and consequently needs a re-ring. I've been told
the engine will have to come out of the boat ( which I can organise ), but where do I take it to get the job
done ?. I can get the parts sent to me so I can choose whomever, so any suggestions in the Sydney area ?
Are the guys at Tarren Point to be trusted ?. What do you think.
Sam,sorry to hear about the motor, if I understand correctly you are from the north-side of Sydney, which just happens to be the location of WM Diesel. I cannot recommend John highly enough, I and others have found him to be extremely helpful and honest, something often sadly lacking elsewhere 
. Taren Point is such a long way to go in your case.
W M Diesel 02 9979 5480. John Wichard proprietor.
The rebuild option will cost approx $3500. To re engine with a Beta 14 HP twin cyl that'll just drop in
will be about $8500. I'm thinking the new engine will be the way to go and may be the better option
when I come to sell it. All this thinking is making my head ache.
Select to expand quoteUncleBob said..samsturdy said..
It seems my trusty DV10 has had a piston ring let go and consequently needs a re-ring. I've been told
the engine will have to come out of the boat ( which I can organise ), but where do I take it to get the job
done ?. I can get the parts sent to me so I can choose whomever, so any suggestions in the Sydney area ?
Are the guys at Tarren Point to be trusted ?. What do you think.
Sam,sorry to hear about the motor, if I understand correctly you are from the north-side of Sydney, which just happens to be the location of WM Diesel. I cannot recommend John highly enough, I and others have found him to be extremely helpful and honest, something often sadly lacking elsewhere . Taren Point is such a long way to go in your case.
W M Diesel 02 9979 5480. John Wichard proprietor.
Thanks Bob. Yes Witchard Marine is one of the options if I choose to rebuild.
Select to expand quotesamsturdy said..UncleBob said..samsturdy said..
It seems my trusty DV10 has had a piston ring let go and consequently needs a re-ring. I've been told
the engine will have to come out of the boat ( which I can organise ), but where do I take it to get the job
done ?. I can get the parts sent to me so I can choose whomever, so any suggestions in the Sydney area ?
Are the guys at Tarren Point to be trusted ?. What do you think.
Sam,sorry to hear about the motor, if I understand correctly you are from the north-side of Sydney, which just happens to be the location of WM Diesel. I cannot recommend John highly enough, I and others have found him to be extremely helpful and honest, something often sadly lacking elsewhere . Taren Point is such a long way to go in your case.
W M Diesel 02 9979 5480. John Wichard proprietor.
Thanks Bob. Yes Witchard Marine is one of the options if I choose to rebuild.
Sam, it could be worth pricing the same motor as the Betta of choice from John, his conversions are very good.
Vetus seems to be trowing in all the extras like water lock, exhaust hose and fuel filter as part of the standard price right now.
I brought a 27hp a few months back on that deal.
+1 for WM Diesel
We have one in our Cav. Never missed a beat. Picked Johns brains a few times and he is always helpful.
If you put in anything other than the original motor you may be up for a new prop and other bits and pieces. ( only one or two boat dollars) . When I put a new engine in mine I used the " taren point guy" I had absolutely no problems and found them very helpfull, I was asked how much of the work I wanted to do and they did the rest. I had to manufacture a new engine bed ( my choice) and they guided me through that so it was a bolt in fit. Dropped motor in,got them to align it , I did the rest and they came back that arvo for the first start up. Price was the same as the competition and they answered emails. It's a beta 25 that I put in.
Hi Sam
If you don't mind me asking what are the symptoms with the existing motor
Regards Don
Hey Sam!!
I would be having a look at some of the second hand engines around before spending too much money on the Buhk.
I was told that Buhk now only make engines for life boats because they were the only ones certified by NATO or some such and there is only one model. The DV 24 Twin.
According to this guy on the tree, Yanmars also made it into life boats. Bit expensive I feel but I bet he has a good profit margin on them.
www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/currimundi/boat-accessories-parts/yanmar-marine-engines/1167223538
They are not what you want though. I am really happy with my 2 QM 15 Yanmar and I do not think you would have too much trouble getting a 2cyl Yanmar into your boat .
Thing is with Yanmars, you get hand crank but you do not get hand start unless you are a very clever silver back gorilla.
Thanks for the response guys. I'm going to the Sydney boat show today to see if I can stitch up a boat show deal on a new motor. the modern motors tend to be twin cyls and smaller in physical dimensions, so that suits me. I'll do most of the dismantling work myself although I do have a really good mechanic ( Sandy Wallace ) who will install the new one. Nothing cast in stone at this point but I feel totally reluctant to take the boat out as I can't trust the engine.
Don. The major symptom is the loss of oil through the exhaust. In one hour of motoring half the dipstick level has gone. When I look aft I cannot see any blue smoke, apparently the oil is lying on the water and not blowing in the air as smoke. I can accept that explanation as it sure as hell is not leaking into the bilge. As well as that I have a loud 'pinging' sound with each firing and that apparently is piston slap caused by the sloppy rings.
Select to expand quotesamsturdy said..
It seems my trusty DV10 has had a piston ring let go and consequently needs a re-ring. I've been told
the engine will have to come out of the boat ( which I can organise ), but where do I take it to get the job
done ?. I can get the parts sent to me so I can choose whomever, so any suggestions in the Sydney area ?
Are the guys at Tarren Point to be trusted ?. What do you think.
I think you should pull the engine and take it home. Pull it down and repair the problem. Treat it as a hobby and learn as you go. It will be cheaper and at the end of the day you will have a marine engine that you know back to front.
That's true Ramona but that's for young folks. I have a great boat, the only thing wrong is the engine. I don't want to tote heavy things about
so I think it will be kinder on me to spend a bit extra and have a new motor.
Sam I was recently confronted with the same situation. Chose to replace with a new Vetus engine and happy with my decision. I have also heard good things about WM Diesels.
I wouldn't be rebuilding your existing motor. It's frightfully old tech and at its age if raw water cooled could have fatal corrosion problems you cannot see.
All other options mentioned sound good except the "fully" reconditioned engine from taren point. I have one of those, it is four years old and knackered.
Select to expand quoteoldboyracer said..
If you put in anything other than the original motor you may be up for a new prop and other bits and pieces. ( only one or two boat dollars) . When I put a new engine in mine I used the " taren point guy" I had absolutely no problems and found them very helpfull, I was asked how much of the work I wanted to do and they did the rest. I had to manufacture a new engine bed ( my choice) and they guided me through that so it was a bolt in fit. Dropped motor in,got them to align it , I did the rest and they came back that arvo for the first start up. Price was the same as the competition and they answered emails. It's a beta 25 that I put in.
Sure, the same result as a number of others I know that have purchased new betta engines there, but they are new from a well respected marinising business OS, not "fully reconditioned" as are some of the other offerings. 
Select to expand quotekeensailor said..
I wouldn't be rebuilding your existing motor. It's frightfully old tech and at its age if raw water cooled could have fatal corrosion problems you cannot see.
All other options mentioned sound good except the "fully" reconditioned engine from taren point. I have one of those, it is four years old and knackered.
It's frightfully the same tech as the new engines. Nothing has changed. The Bukh is a marine engine. The other engines mentioned that are small enough for your yacht are marinised cement mixer motors. The Bukh might cost a couple of hundred dollars to repair, it starts and runs so there can not be much wrong with it. Even if you pay $8500 for a new motor you may end up paying another 4 grand on installation costs.
I would pull the engine down in situ. If the problem is minor then fix it. If major you have reduced the weight of the unit and it will be easier to remove.
Thanks for all the advice guys. My decision was to invest in a new Beta 14 HP. twin cyl. I went to the Boat Show
and haggled a price having in mind I always had the re-ring option. Ended up with the engine and all the 'bits& pieces'
with free delivery for $6900. Happy with that. I can do most of the changeover work myself.
Select to expand quotesydchris said..
If a ring has gone there's a good chance other stuff - bearings etc - will be at or close to end of service life. By the time you remove, strip and rebuild to spec you might be better off getting one of the reco Bukh engines of the same model that Bukh offer. Makes sense if you're going to keep the boat for any length of time. And replacing with the same model means you won't have to change mounts etc.
I've never rebuilt a DV10 but I believe they're difficult (= time consuming) to get timed correctly.
Not from SYDNEY Bukh read on here of others dealings with them
Select to expand quotesamsturdy said..
Thanks for all the advice guys. My decision was to invest in a new Beta 14 HP. twin cyl. I went to the Boat Show
and haggled a price having in mind I always had the re-ring option. Ended up with the engine and all the 'bits& pieces'
with free delivery for $6900. Happy with that. I can do most of the changeover work myself.
I think that would be a marinized Kubota or Mitsubishi.
I saw a Beta 2 cyl engine running in a Cav 28 some years ago. I was impressed with it's smooth running. I think you have made a good choice Sam.
Take great care with the installation and if possible solid mount it rather than flexible mounts. Mounted on hard wood blocks you should be able to achieve a very accurate drive coupling alignment that will stay true long term. It is worth the extra effort!!
Drive coupling misalignment costs RPM, HP and extra wear.
Select to expand quotecisco said..samsturdy said..
Thanks for all the advice guys. My decision was to invest in a new Beta 14 HP. twin cyl. I went to the Boat Show
and haggled a price having in mind I always had the re-ring option. Ended up with the engine and all the 'bits& pieces'
with free delivery for $6900. Happy with that. I can do most of the changeover work myself.
I think that would be a marinized Kubota or Mitsubishi.
I saw a Beta 2 cyl engine running in a Cav 28 some years ago. I was impressed with it's smooth running. I think you have made a good choice Sam.
Take great care with the installation and if possible solid mount it rather than flexible mounts. Mounted on hard wood blocks you should be able to achieve a very accurate drive coupling alignment that will stay true long term. It is worth the extra effort!!
Drive coupling misalignment costs RPM, HP and extra wear.
Yes Cisco it's Kubota. Your comments sound positive. The engines come with adjustable mounts so there's infinite
adjustment to match existing mounts. I'll get Sandy Wallace to do the alignment and first firing. Thanks for the input.
