Below I insert a diagram of common outboard fuel connectors. I need to select the best type for connecting petrol tanks to a petrol generator. I have space to install any style of connector.
I have experience with Yamaha and Evinrude connectors (they are the brass & black coloured ones with the two prongs) - sadly my experience with them is not always positive, but I suppose they can be made to work Ok.
So I am leaning towards trying out the round style connectors (no prongs, silver coloured in the diagram) - this style is used by Tohatsu and Honda.
But I have no idea whether they may actually be worse in practice - in so far as leaking petrol/air and sturdy connection are concerned.
Anyone on the forum with experience of the round style Tohatsu or Honda or Mercury fuel connectors, I would love to hear whether you like them or hate them? Or any gripe or compliment about any of the connectors. Thanks.
OEM is the key here I think.
My old merc2 prong is still going strong.
I bought the bottom one as a Suzuki sub 25hp connection aftermarket for the fuel tank side to swap between tanks. The attachment is positive but I did have to replace the oring after 3years.
Select to expand quoteslammin said..
OEM is the key here I think.
My old merc2 prong is still going strong.
I bought the bottom one as a Suzuki sub 25hp connection aftermarket for the fuel tank side to swap between tanks. The attachment is positive but I did have to replace the oring after 3years.
Thanks for that, Slammin. Does one need special tools to get the o-ring of that connector out?
No, I used a jewellers blade screw driver from memory. I replaced it with a slightly larger oring 1stly because that's what I had handy and 2ndly to make it an even snugger fit. Keep in mind that there are 2. Inner and Outer. The outer one doesn't seem to do a hell of a lot, I guess keep the connection clean.
The only problem with the Merc style ones are that they can be reversed. At Xmas my brother was left redfaced- when his outboard on the beachcat pffted to a stop. He couldn't work it out. I had a quick squiz and put it on the right way. LOL
Select to expand quoteslammin said..
No, I used a jewellers blade screw driver from memory. I replaced it with a slightly larger oring 1stly because that's what I had handy and 2ndly to make it an even snugger fit. Keep in mind that there are 2. Inner and Outer. The outer one doesn't seem to do a hell of a lot, I guess keep the connection clean.
The only problem with the Merc style ones are that they can be reversed. At Xmas my brother was left redfaced- when his outboard on the beachcat pffted to a stop. He couldn't work it out. I had a quick squiz and put it on the right way. LOL
I would be very grateful to know where you obtained the O ring? I couldn't locate one, I found references to them in the US, but there was no point in attempting to ship one to Oz.
Annoying to spend about $20 on a new fitting when it is only the O-ring that has gone.
Thanks,
Tim
Select to expand quotePurfler said..slammin said..
No, I used a jewellers blade screw driver from memory. I replaced it with a slightly larger oring 1stly because that's what I had handy and 2ndly to make it an even snugger fit. Keep in mind that there are 2. Inner and Outer. The outer one doesn't seem to do a hell of a lot, I guess keep the connection clean.
The only problem with the Merc style ones are that they can be reversed. At Xmas my brother was left redfaced- when his outboard on the beachcat pffted to a stop. He couldn't work it out. I had a quick squiz and put it on the right way. LOL
I would be very grateful to know where you obtained the O ring? I couldn't locate one, I found references to them in the US, but there was no point in attempting to ship one to Oz.
Annoying to spend about $20 on a new fitting when it is only the O-ring that has gone.
Thanks,
Tim
Tim, any bearing supplier such as Bearing services, Hooper etc stock sets of sized O rings, just take a sample in and they match it on the spot.
Most old fashioned plumbing supply shops usually can do the same.
Cheers.
^ as above.
The one I used just happened to be in my jar of orings. I suspect it is a garden tap hose connector oring. On the male faucet side.
If you do happen to go to the trouble of getting an O-ring from a bearing shop, may be worth asking for a Nitrile or Viton type ring - they will last longer with petrol.
Slammin, thanks for the tip about there being two o-rings - didn't know that.
i usually order them online. if you do, you need to measure the inside and outside diameter, plus the thickness of the actual ring...
Select to expand quotefishmonkey said..
i usually order them online. if you do, you need to measure the inside and outside diameter, plus the thickness of the actual ring...
I spent quite some time on the net looking for nitrile O-rings of the correct OD and thickness without success (other than from the US, from where postage was stupid). It seemed to be a non-standard size, a common annoyance with car parts I find as well. I'd be very concerned at using non-fuel proof O-rings in this application. I should try searching again.
Regards,
Tim
PS -I found lower unit oil seals for my 1973 Johnson 2hp on AliBAba for bugger all. I now have several lifetimes' supply. Anyone need one?
Hi Tim, good chance you'll find a good range of nitrile o-ring sizes from a bearing shop like ABC Bearings, if you happen to have one in your town/city.
Get OEM OMC fittings and hose for a number of reasons.
Firstly there is one OMC style connector so you can never get it wrong.
Secondly they supply the best quality hose and fittings. A number of years ago I worked for a OMC and Merc dealer. We would use the OMC hose on every fit up.
Alternately if it's below decks use Mako Marine JS1427 approvec stuff and you will stop some fuel smell
Thanks for your recommendation, Rumble, obviously backed by first hand experience.
This past weekend I already bought a male-female pair of Tohatsu fittings (chrome coloured round ones). Just testing them by hand, I must say they feel like they lock very nicely. But the real question is how nicely they will be locking after 12 months' use.
If they frustrate me or leak relatively soon, I'll give the Evinrude (OMC) ones a go.
The Tohatsu pair cost $25 from Whitworths, but I expect one would pay over $50 for a true blue OEM part from an Evinrude dealer. Though if they last 5+ years and don't leak it would be worth it.
Select to expand quoteKarsten said..
If they frustrate me or leak relatively soon, I'll give the Evinrude (OMC) ones a go.
The Tohatsu pair cost $25 from Whitworths, but I expect one would pay over $50 for a true blue OEM part from an Evinrude dealer. Though if they last 5+ years and don't leak it would be worth it.
I had dealer fit OMC fittings on a new Tohy outboard ,fuel line and tank 9 years ago and they still going.
Just a thought: I have both a 2 stroke and a 4 stroke outboard, I have different fittings on each - seems like a good way to prevent unfortunate confusion :-)
Tim
