I am looking for opinions and comparisons of these two kites. Riding in Darwin 16m is a standard kite size for a bloke my size (88kg), and the Rebel is a clear favourite. I am getting salespeople for Best telling me the Kahoona is very similar to the Rebel, although the biggest size available is 13.5m. They swear their 13.5 has a similar range to most other 16m kites. I know North makes more durable kites, but they are offering me the Kahoona at literally half the price…
So, any comments on if the Kahoona is indeed a poor man’s Rebel.
And, any comments on whether the 13.5m will perform similar to a 16m Rebel.
I am a beginner/intermediate so have to decide between spending big bucks early in the game, or getting the budget model with a view to upgrading to a more advanced kite later. I am avoiding 2nd hand kites cos I have seen friends have no end of problems buying them.
Thanks 
Just out of curiosity why not go for the 14m Rebel instead of a 16m with a bigger board? Your only getting 1knot more bottom end (so says the web site) but you get a faster kite.
I'm 105 (well 110kg - turkey did me in) and the 14m is my largest.
I rode in the Cook islands on a 138 Underground Zephyr with my 14m granted I wasn't out as a early as a guy your weight who was riding a 14m rebel and a 142 (he was out in around 11-12 knots and going up wind - intermediate rider)
If your going to put them back to back the 16m rebel is a bigger kite there for "should" have a lower bottom end the kicker is it will be slower in turning and not be able to work up apperent as quickly as the 13.5m which is where the Kahoona gains some ground back.
If your looking for a pure light wind kite I'd also have a look at the Ozone Zephyr, little more expensive but it's getting good bottom end reviews - there's a thread in the Gear Review section.
And try them all if you can.
Maybe take all advice with a pinch of salt??
When they told you a 13.5m Kahoona has the same bottom end as a 16m Rebel were they chuckling in the background?
As for the Zephyr the Rebel in a 16m will have as good or better bottom end.
Pure light wind = 15 or 19m Flysurfer Speed III
Most bang for size = EH Ovando
Jas
I think at the end of the day - for low wind performance you need to go for pure surface area...
Look for kites with a flatter arc, so there's more canopy to work for you (like the EH Ovando on the extreme side). Yes the delta kites (like the Kahoona, Bandit, GT etc DO generate a lot of power, but they need a bit of wind to get going too...
You probably could get a 13.5 Kahoona going in the same wind as a 16m Rebel - but you'd have to do a heap more work, and have much more skill to make it happen. I ride a 7m kite when many others are riding 12m's - Not because it's an all amazing light wind machine - but i've had the time and experience to get the most out of a small kite...
An intermediate rider could just point and park a 16m - where as they'd have to flick a 13.5 around until they built board speed, then work to keep the board speed etc.
Pick the bigger options - Rebel, Speed 2 or 3's, Ozone Zephyr (Avail. kite only, works on any 4 line bar to keep costs down, and there's 2 used ones floating around for $1400)
Hi again
Thanks for the advice thus far. I am starting to favour the rebel 2010 model now. but my question now is whether to go for 14m or 16m... I like the idea of smaller kite/bigger board, but am unsure if that is sound advice for darwin's low wind conditions... any advice out there??
cheers
Hi Cameron.
Go for Rebel 12 m mate !
16 and 14 m are way too slow and do not really give you a better bottom end,
well may be 1 knt.
With a bit of practice youl be able to fly 12 m well and getting good bottom end, for your weight 12 knots for sure.
I DO NOT belive in kiting under 14 knts, it's bloody borring.
My biggest kite Rebel 2010 9 m :). Just get bigger board (surfboard) on the light wind days.
Good luck.
I totally agree with Sasha. I recently bought a 2009 12metre Rebel and the power range is amazing. In lighter winds, 12-15 knots, I would always use my 14m Rebel, but now I use the 12 and can go upwind in 12kts. The modern kites are far more efficent and powerfull. I am 90kgs and my board is a Liquid force 140by43cm twintip, and with the 12, I have still been able to stay out in 30kts, so that's a pretty good wind range!
Here is some imfo from some years ago that calls for large kites in light winds.
Light Air Kitesurfing
(Last Update: 05/07/2007 22:41:03)
One of the many attractions of kitesurfing is that one can kitesurf in very little wind, as low as 5 knots. As long as you can fly a traction kite, you can kitesurf. Once a kite is airborne, it is weightless. So in light wind condition, just go out with a larger kite and a larger board. In the following sections, you will find the recommended equipment and techniques required for extreme light wind kitesurfing (5 - 10 knots). Furthermore, You can kiteski (on snow) starting from what ever the wind speed the kite can fly decently (can keep the kite stay overhead without having to move the kite). The following table shows the estimated minimum wind speed you need to fly a number types of kite decently:
Kite Type Minimum Wind Speed (in Knots) to Fly Decently
Inflatable 5
Flat Inflatable (Bow Kite) 4-5
Arc 4-5
Closed Cell Foil 4-5
Opened Cell Foil 3
Contrary to popular belief, kitesurfing and kiteskiing in extreme light air is very challenging and generates a lot of fun. There is a lot of satisfaction, a feeling of possessing a divine power, coming out of being able to propel your board/skis very fast on the water in very little wind (easily 2 to 3 times wind speed on snow) - a feast unachievable by any other sailing crafts known to man. In any case, being on the water is much better than staying on the beach.
Extreme Light Air Equipment
The following equipment and conditions are recommended for light air kitesurfing:
A very large and very high performance kite (the larger the kite, the lower the wind you can kitesurf). If you kitesurf in extreme light wind (6 knots and below), most kites is not usually water relauncheable. You can use any large high performance traction kite, just try to keep it in the air while kitesurfing. Also note that a regular foil fly better than a closed cell foil in light wind.
Use a faster turning and faster flying kite; some kite can fly very fast but can't turn fast enough (this is a tough combination but keep looking and in the end you will find a right kite for extreme light wind).
If you have a kite powerful enough to be fully powered up even for such light wind condition, you can use your normal kiteboard. If you are somewhat underpowered even with your largest kite, then you would need a larger board. The larger the board the lower the wind you can ride as the larger planning surface of the board will help in early planning and sustaining the planning when you jibe. This also means that the larger the board the more wind range (in extreme light wind only) that it has over the smaller board. Thus it is better to use a larger board in very light wind. The larger directional board should be 1' to 2' longer than your height and the larger bi-directional board should be around your height. Skimboards are also very popular among light wind riders.
Very long lines 30+ m (especially for 5 - 10 knots of wind). Basically just get a 10m line extension set and just add this 10m extension to your line in extreme light light wind.
Smooth water (a lake or a shallow bay). You can plan sooner and go upwind easier in smooth water than in choppy water.
Extreme Light Air Riding
Similar to windsurfing, it is very easy to kitesurf in moderate to strong wind but very challenging to kitesurf in light wind. You have to be perfect in almost every move to keep on planning during lulls. Following are the tips and techniques one needs to master for light air kitesurfing:
If possible, use the fixed loop to harness more power of your kite.
In very light air (less than 7 knots), all kites are very sluggish, it takes longer for the kite to response to your command and turn. Anticipate this delay and command your kite 1/2 second before you actually want it to turn. This anticipation is very important when you have to turn the kite up while it is diving downward.
In light air, you have to predict the movement of the kite instead of reacting to the kite's movement by observing or "feeling" it (as you would normally do in high wind).
When you command your kite to turn, do it forcefully. For example, pull a control bar to the left such that the left end is almost pointing to your body and the right end is almost pointing to the kite to command the kite to turn left. If you use a 4 line kites with handles, make sure you use the brake lines to make the kite turn faster.
Pump your line (pull the control bar up/down, up/down a number of times) to keep the kite in the air during a lull. If you are in the water, try swimming backward while pumping your lines. If you are on your board, try to edge the windward rail while pumping your lines.
If you are loosing balance in a lull, bend you knee to keep your center of gravity closer to the center of the board. As a general rule, do this every time you are waiting for the kite to turn in very light wind.
If you are underpowered, move the kite continuously to generate power. Try to use the entire available wind window (your command has to be precise, perfect and always anticipate the delay). You can use the sine wave pattern, the figure 8 pattern or a combination of both (use the sine wave pattern will deliver slightly less power but will facilitate going upwind). Normally your kite should be flying in the forward portion of the wind window. If you are way underpowered, you can use a part of the backward wind window temporarily.
When the kite goes up: move your center of gravity closer to the board and flatten your board to sustain high speed. When the kite goes down: lean backward; edge hard on your windward rail and point your board upwind. This will allow the board to sustain high speed and going upwind at the same time.
Turn your board slightly upwind just before you turn the kite upward. This will add more tension to the lines and make the kite turn faster.
When your board start planning, the kite will fly much better due to the apparent wind effect. Try to keep the board and the kite as stable as possible (don't stall them) to maximize the apparent wind effect (I once clocked 3 times the wind speed kiteskiing in very light wind around 6 - 8 knots)
Use the techniques described in Kitesurfing in an Underpowered Situation to get back to shore if the wind drops.
Use the techniques described in Kitesurfing in an Overpowered Situation to handle the gusts. Do not rush to shore to change to a smaller kite unless you are out of control and the "gust" stays for more than 30 minutes.
Extreme Light Air Jumping
It is possible to jump in extreme light air, especially from 7 to 10 knots (below 7 knots it is extremely difficult if not currently possible):
To jump in very light wind, you need to use the forward speed of the board to its maximum potential. So go as fast as you can before the jump.
Keep the kite around 70 degrees vertical just before the jump.
Move the kite backward, upward to 75 degrees backward (this movement will allow you to maximize the upward lift of the kite).
Take your back hand off the control bar such that your front hand will force the kite to move forward as soon as you are off the ground (otherwise you won't be able to land properly)
