Hi,
Some say IDS bar is over engineered. Had a go this weekend and liked it, depower is too easy compared to traditional one line. Only issue I had was when QR is launched there was no way I could assemble it back in the water. wonder what other think of IDS bar ?
thanks
My first quiver of kites where Cabrina and I found the same thing. It's probably a good thing for a beginner not be able to easily get the bar working again in the water. However, I found it extremely frustrating so no longer use Cabrina as a result. Like anything though I guess with enough practice it could be accomplished. Compared to Ozone and Core which I now fly I found the IDS bar really clumsy.
thanks...I thought I missed something because IDS bar is marketed as soooo advanced 
...my two kites are north (5 line) so I think I'm stuck with north bar till replace. Wish bars are interchangeable between brands so we can get the best kite and best bar. Just a dream
IDS disappeared years ago. Why are you asking questions about it now?
IMHO Cabrinha bars are far superior to the alternatives. Clean neat and elegant. Mine are still going strong 6 after over 6 years. My only complaint is that replacing the chicken loop line is expensive if choose to buy the genuine Cabrinha part, or a bit of an effort if you make your own (like I did). The lines did not break but after 6 years I felt it sensible to replace the load bearing lines.
It's a problem for me because I am looking at getting new kites. I have trouble getting enthused about the cheaper and easier to replace system with up to 3 pieces of rope running through the bar with the more expensive but more reliable Cabrinha system.
The Core and Flysurfer bars I think are the best out of them all. Expensive, as much as a kite! But worth it.
The Cab bar reminds me of a Slinky (Gen Y google it). They have some great ideas and products but id agree this is a bit much.
Select to expand quoteGorgo said...
IDS disappeared years ago. Why are you asking questions about it now?
IMHO Cabrinha bars are far superior to the alternatives. Clean neat and elegant. Mine are still going strong 6 after over 6 years. My only complaint is that replacing the chicken loop line is expensive if choose to buy the genuine Cabrinha part, or a bit of an effort if you make your own (like I did). The lines did not break but after 6 years I felt it sensible to replace the load bearing lines.
It's a problem for me because I am looking at getting new kites. I have trouble getting enthused about the cheaper and easier to replace system with up to 3 pieces of rope running through the bar with the more expensive but more reliable Cabrinha system.
There you have it... your bar is 6 years old and still good.
Cab don't make them like that any more. 3 mates grips on new cab bars only lasted 6 months each. They were super expensive too.
Still using 2011 Cabrinha bars myself. If you can't reassemble them two-handed, you're a retard...
@Gorgo: I've replaced the trim strap, depower tube and landing lines on my heavier used bars. I didn't think the prices were that bad...? I've thought about changing out the depower line and adding a Switch swivel and trim block, but you need a below-the-bar swivel to make it work and that means a whole new bar, so the price is wrong.
Select to expand quoteKamikuza said..
Still using 2011 Cabrinha bars myself. If you can't reassemble them two-handed, you're a retard...
have you ever tried re-connecting a 2012/13/14 IDS/Quicklink while floating in the water successfully (with wind of course)?
Select to expand quoteHighzaKite said..Kamikuza said..
Still using 2011 Cabrinha bars myself. If you can't reassemble them two-handed, you're a retard...
have you ever tried re-connecting a 2012/13/14 IDS/Quicklink while floating in the water successfully (with wind of course)?
I've seen him post something along those lines before about how easy it is to reassamble them and it makes me cringe each time. They're nearly impossible to reset in the water with wind, and on land its almost a 2 person job.
Select to expand quoteKamikuza said..
...
@Gorgo: I've replaced the trim strap, depower tube and landing lines on my heavier used bars. I didn't think the prices were that bad...? I've thought about changing out the depower line and adding a Switch swivel and trim block, but you need a below-the-bar swivel to make it work and that means a whole new bar, so the price is wrong.
I have 2010/2011 kites and the main depower line is not readily available. The new ones are $70 and not really compatible with the old bars.
There were a few threads broken on the end of the loop. I unstitched the depower line from the plastic tube. Spliced up a new line from 3mm dyneema. Then re-inserted it and hand stitched the ends. It works fine. It cost about $3.
The hardest part was removing the stitching. The stitches are embedded in the plastic so you have to sort of shave the thread off. The plastic is actually very soft so it's easy to hand sew.
My kites are approaching the end of their life so I am just trying to keep things robust for another season. I have made new front lines and main depower lines where needed.
Of course, the kites refuse to die so that plan is a bit open ended.
Plan B would be to make a race/cleat depower system and just have bare line going through the bar. It would be easy to monitor wear and simply replace the line from time to time.
PS In 16 years I have never had to release the QR in the water. For me it is an "end of the world" option. There's no way I would be releasing then trying to re-assemble while bobbing around in the water. If I had to do it I would work out a way. That's what usually happens when there's a major malfunction in the water. You work stuff out (eg. Riding home with a broken main harness strap. Various self rescues. Relaunching a split kite. etc etc etc)
I bought a Cabrinha bar and lines at the start of the system and went for the 1X with Trim Lite. At the time I was searching for the most simple bar on the market as my other brand bar and lines was dangerous and didn't have the features I wanted. I am not a fan of the Cab bar with the "slinky" and two straps as IMO it just over-complicated in it's set-up. Having said that, a mate has the Overdrive with coil and loves it.
Again, priority for me was the most simple system out there and the Cabrinha X1 met most conditions....ease of release and reset of safety, flagged to one line, flagging was immediate, no below-the bar swivel, one line trim system with a easy to use handle for adjustment, trim line that didn't "dangle" about, a good locking cleat system for the trim line, and a bar that floats.
I also have the Core bar which I also love but being a "high Y" set-up it only suits my light wind kite and not my other kites. This is a particularly simple system as well and has all the above features as well.
To date, I have been very happy with this Cab bar and can't make any complaints about it.
Select to expand quoteshi thouse said..
I bought a Cabrinha bar and lines at the start of the system and went for the 1X with Trim Lite. At the time I was searching for the most simple bar on the market as my other brand bar and lines was dangerous and didn't have the features I wanted. I am not a fan of the Cab bar with the "slinky" and two straps as IMO it just over-complicated in it's set-up. Having said that, a mate has the Overdrive with coil and loves it.
Again, priority for me was the most simple system out there and the Cabrinha X1 met most conditions....ease of release and reset of safety, flagged to one line, flagging was immediate, no below-the bar swivel, one line trim system with a easy to use handle for adjustment, trim line that didn't "dangle" about, a good locking cleat system for the trim line, and a bar that floats.
I also have the Core bar which I also love but being a "high Y" set-up it only suits my light wind kite and not my other kites. This is a particularly simple system as well and has all the above features as well.
To date, I have been very happy with this Cab bar and can't make any complaints about it.
You need to have a look at the BRM CCS bar. Very straight forward.
Select to expand quoteloftywinds2 said..
The Core and Flysurfer bars I think are the best out of them all. Expensive, as much as a kite! But worth it.
flysurfer infinity 3.0 bar is one of the worst bars i have seen . Hard bar ends . No elastic loops to tidy off lines wrapped around bar ends . A ****ty metal block that wears down the safety line that requires replacing out of the box (which has actually been changed now) and on the "race" bar the trim strap hasn't been extended . The chicken loop and donkey dick need a complete overhaul .
Compared to the ozone bar with soft bar ends it looks like something a homer designed alongside his car
Select to expand quoteCJ2478 said..
HighzaKite said..
Kamikuza said..
Still using 2011 Cabrinha bars myself. If you can't reassemble them two-handed, you're a retard...
have you ever tried re-connecting a 2012/13/14 IDS/Quicklink while floating in the water successfully (with wind of course)?
I've seen him post something along those lines before about how easy it is to reassamble them and it makes me cringe each time. They're nearly impossible to reset in the water with wind, and on land its almost a 2 person job.
The 2009/10/11 IDS is a piece of cake to reconnect, its the Quiklink system on the 12/13/14 that almost requires 3 hands to reconnect. I have also hear it accidentally releases very easily when unhooked.
Select to expand quoteHighzaKite said..CJ2478 said.. HighzaKite said.. Kamikuza said..
Still using 2011 Cabrinha bars myself. If you can't reassemble them two-handed, you're a retard...
have you ever tried re-connecting a 2012/13/14 IDS/Quicklink while floating in the water successfully (with wind of course)?
I've seen him post something along those lines before about how easy it is to reassamble them and it makes me cringe each time. They're nearly impossible to reset in the water with wind, and on land its almost a 2 person job.
The 2009/10/11 IDS is a piece of cake to reconnect, its the Quiklink system on the 12/13/14 that almost requires 3 hands to reconnect. I have also hear it accidentally releases very easily when unhooked.
After listening to all the tards cry about the new QR in 2012, the first thing I did when I got my hands on one was throw the QR and put it back together. Easy. Out in the water...no more difficult than (almost) any other QR.
Select to expand quoteGorgo said..Kamikuza said..
...
@Gorgo: I've replaced the trim strap, depower tube and landing lines on my heavier used bars. I didn't think the prices were that bad...? I've thought about changing out the depower line and adding a Switch swivel and trim block, but you need a below-the-bar swivel to make it work and that means a whole new bar, so the price is wrong.
I have 2010/2011 kites and the main depower line is not readily available. The new ones are $70 and not really compatible with the old bars.
There were a few threads broken on the end of the loop. I unstitched the depower line from the plastic tube. Spliced up a new line from 3mm dyneema. Then re-inserted it and hand stitched the ends. It works fine. It cost about $3.
The hardest part was removing the stitching. The stitches are embedded in the plastic so you have to sort of shave the thread off. The plastic is actually very soft so it's easy to hand sew.
My kites are approaching the end of their life so I am just trying to keep things robust for another season. I have made new front lines and main depower lines where needed.
Of course, the kites refuse to die so that plan is a bit open ended.
Plan B would be to make a race/cleat depower system and just have bare line going through the bar. It would be easy to monitor wear and simply replace the line from time to time.
PS In 16 years I have never had to release the QR in the water. For me it is an "end of the world" option. There's no way I would be releasing then trying to re-assemble while bobbing around in the water. If I had to do it I would work out a way. That's what usually happens when there's a major malfunction in the water. You work stuff out (eg. Riding home with a broken main harness strap. Various self rescues. Relaunching a split kite. etc etc etc)
Yeah, you pretty much have to buy the whole CL too. Then you're stuck with that horrid QR 
DIY depower is my plan too. I though about doing a cleat too, similar to the new system--you can buy the cleat for about $10. Then you have to buy new front lines... I've a spare line set but, are the rears the same braking strength as the fronts?
I've released on the water, usually accidentally. Plenty of time to reconnect if you swim at the kite a bit and let it drift...
2009 48cm and 2010 55 cm IDS bars. I haven't tried any other but, on the beach, in the water (overpowered and underpowered)... Same thing, i got a hang of it, little tricky but after a couple of times.... I really don't see what's the problem.
I read about this newer quicklink ids or whatever but, to me, looks the same (function), only difference maybe the elastic string on newer models is maybe a bit more stronger? (more pull needed to lock in again)
Only thing i am missing is spring, ill order 2, i hate when those red/black balls stay 2 far or start to dance around steering lines during selflaunch on the land. Also i am short armed, so i hope it will help keeping trims closer to me. And more tidy ofc.
EDIT:
And yes, i connect leash to little ring (located on that IDS velcro crap on the chicken loop) directly, i don't use 2nd QR mechanism. 2 messy and not needed in my opinion. Now ring is freehanging from the IDS's 1st QR
I'm actually on the market for one of those 2014 1X overdrive bars.
Don't really like the recoil trim, so intending to swap it out for an above bar clamcleat.
Select to expand quoteRagzilla said..
I'm actually on the market for one of those 2014 1X overdrive bars.
Don't really like the recoil trim, so intending to swap it out for an above bar clamcleat.
I think you are looking at the 2015 trimlite which I would have thought designed for light wind larger or race kites when you are trying to micro adjust the trim for glorified speed lawn mowing.
I only use the trim for landing or when overpowered, even then I rarely go out planning to be overpowered.
The recoil system is still great in imo, out of the way, easy to use and does't leave a hanging flapping trim cord which invariably wraps itself around the mainline. Other than the stopper balls which feel like concrete when they whack your fingers in the cold, are now changed to plastic finger handles much easier to grab,
Select to expand quoteKamikuza said..HighzaKite said..CJ2478 said.. HighzaKite said.. Kamikuza said..
Still using 2011 Cabrinha bars myself. If you can't reassemble them two-handed, you're a retard...
have you ever tried re-connecting a 2012/13/14 IDS/Quicklink while floating in the water successfully (with wind of course)?
I've seen him post something along those lines before about how easy it is to reassamble them and it makes me cringe each time. They're nearly impossible to reset in the water with wind, and on land its almost a 2 person job.
The 2009/10/11 IDS is a piece of cake to reconnect, its the Quiklink system on the 12/13/14 that almost requires 3 hands to reconnect. I have also hear it accidentally releases very easily when unhooked.
After listening to all the tards cry about the new QR in 2012, the first thing I did when I got my hands on one was throw the QR and put it back together. Easy. Out in the water...no more difficult than (almost) any other QR.
wow you must be a real legend
Select to expand quoteHighzaKite said..Kamikuza said..HighzaKite said..CJ2478 said.. HighzaKite said.. Kamikuza said..
Still using 2011 Cabrinha bars myself. If you can't reassemble them two-handed, you're a retard...
have you ever tried re-connecting a 2012/13/14 IDS/Quicklink while floating in the water successfully (with wind of course)?
I've seen him post something along those lines before about how easy it is to reassamble them and it makes me cringe each time. They're nearly impossible to reset in the water with wind, and on land its almost a 2 person job.
The 2009/10/11 IDS is a piece of cake to reconnect, its the Quiklink system on the 12/13/14 that almost requires 3 hands to reconnect. I have also hear it accidentally releases very easily when unhooked.
After listening to all the tards cry about the new QR in 2012, the first thing I did when I got my hands on one was throw the QR and put it back together. Easy. Out in the water...no more difficult than (almost) any other QR.
wow you must be a real legend
No, the whingers are just below the bell curve. I suspect they have trouble with below-the-bar trim too
Select to expand quoteRagzilla said..
I'm actually on the market for one of those 2014 1X overdrive bars.
Don't really like the recoil trim, so intending to swap it out for an above bar clamcleat.
The cleat and trim line of the TrimLight just larks head onto the depower rope--there are actually two loops (I assume the depower rope is doubled up) but it should work on all bars.
Select to expand quoteKamikuza said..HighzaKite said..Kamikuza said..HighzaKite said..CJ2478 said.. HighzaKite said.. Kamikuza said..
Still using 2011 Cabrinha bars myself. If you can't reassemble them two-handed, you're a retard...
have you ever tried re-connecting a 2012/13/14 IDS/Quicklink while floating in the water successfully (with wind of course)?
I've seen him post something along those lines before about how easy it is to reassamble them and it makes me cringe each time. They're nearly impossible to reset in the water with wind, and on land its almost a 2 person job.
The 2009/10/11 IDS is a piece of cake to reconnect, its the Quiklink system on the 12/13/14 that almost requires 3 hands to reconnect. I have also hear it accidentally releases very easily when unhooked.
After listening to all the tards cry about the new QR in 2012, the first thing I did when I got my hands on one was throw the QR and put it back together. Easy. Out in the water...no more difficult than (almost) any other QR.
wow you must be a real legend
No, the whingers are just below the bell curve. I suspect they have trouble with below-the-bar trim too
you must practice pulling your release a lot
Select to expand quoteHighzaKite said..
Kamikuza said..
HighzaKite said..
Kamikuza said..
HighzaKite said..
CJ2478 said..
HighzaKite said..
Kamikuza said..
Still using 2011 Cabrinha bars myself. If you can't reassemble them two-handed, you're a retard...
have you ever tried re-connecting a 2012/13/14 IDS/Quicklink while floating in the water successfully (with wind of course)?
I've seen him post something along those lines before about how easy it is to reassamble them and it makes me cringe each time. They're nearly impossible to reset in the water with wind, and on land its almost a 2 person job.
The 2009/10/11 IDS is a piece of cake to reconnect, its the Quiklink system on the 12/13/14 that almost requires 3 hands to reconnect. I have also hear it accidentally releases very easily when unhooked.
After listening to all the tards cry about the new QR in 2012, the first thing I did when I got my hands on one was throw the QR and put it back together. Easy. Out in the water...no more difficult than (almost) any other QR.
wow you must be a real legend
No, the whingers are just below the bell curve. I suspect they have trouble with below-the-bar trim too
you must practice pulling your release a lot
I leave the frequent pulling to others.
It's just not as difficult as the ham-fisted make out.
Select to expand quoteGorgo said...Kamikuza said..
...
@Gorgo: I've replaced the trim strap, depower tube and landing lines on my heavier used bars. I didn't think the prices were that bad...? I've thought about changing out the depower line and adding a Switch swivel and trim block, but you need a below-the-bar swivel to make it work and that means a whole new bar, so the price is wrong.
I have 2010/2011 kites and the main depower line is not readily available. The new ones are $70 and not really compatible with the old bars.
There were a few threads broken on the end of the loop. I unstitched the depower line from the plastic tube. Spliced up a new line from 3mm dyneema. Then re-inserted it and hand stitched the ends. It works fine. It cost about $3.
The hardest part was removing the stitching. The stitches are embedded in the plastic so you have to sort of shave the thread off. The plastic is actually very soft so it's easy to hand sew.
My kites are approaching the end of their life so I am just trying to keep things robust for another season. I have made new front lines and main depower lines where needed.
PS In 16 years I have never had to release the QR in the water. For me it is an "end of the world" option. There's no way I would be releasing then trying to re-assemble while bobbing around in the water. If I had to do it I would work out a way. That's what usually happens when there's a major malfunction in the water. You work stuff out (eg. Riding home with a broken main harness strap. Various self rescues. Relaunching a split kite. etc etc etc)
Hay gorgo, ever had your paragliding gear malfunction ever? Excluding line knots and tucks etc but actual equipment failure?
Select to expand quoteJust2807 said..
I read about this newer quicklink ids or whatever but, to me, looks the same (function), only difference maybe the elastic string on newer models is maybe a bit more stronger? (more pull needed to lock in again)
EDIT:
And yes, i connect leash to little ring (located on that IDS velcro crap on the chicken loop) directly, i don't use 2nd QR mechanism. 2 messy and not needed in my opinion. Now ring is freehanging from the IDS's 1st QR
main difference is the quicklink allows you to untwist the front lines as you fly eg. after multiple loops or backrolls, or if you didn't untwist them properly when rigging up. It is a lot bulkier and yes you need to pull harder to re-connect and at the same time push the red housing in the opposite direction. So that's what makes it hard to re-connect - pulling in and pushing out the red housing at the same time.
the quicklink would not allow you to attach your leash to the depower line as it is inside the housing and the second release cannot be activated until after the first release is activated. complicated? yep. still works? yep
Select to expand quote
main difference is the quicklink allows you to untwist the front lines as you fly eg. after multiple loops or backrolls, or if you didn't untwist them properly when rigging up. It is a lot bulkier and yes you need to pull harder to re-connect and at the same time push the red housing in the opposite direction. So that's what makes it hard to re-connect - pulling in and pushing out the red housing at the same time.
the quicklink would not allow you to attach your leash to the depower line as it is inside the housing and the second release cannot be activated until after the first release is activated. complicated? yep. still works? yep
I know the differences, just don't see any difference in QR1 principle. I do pull in (ids line) push out (that red qr plastic crap) on both old bars too.
