I've got a quiver of old revs. 7-11-15
(Don't laugh, they're tough as s*** for for thrash riding and when they break I don't have to cry or get a second job to replace them)
I've gone from 2014 kites to older 2008-9 kites, and I'm finding the turning a bit weird.
When I try to turn the kite after the kite crossed the window (eg: 9oclock to 3oclock) it seems like the turn stalls for a few seconds before it initiates. It doesn't stall as we know kites stalling (tight rear lines etc).... Its like the kite refuses to turn.
I never had this happen on my old Naish Ride or Park.
I've flown only 5 different kites, but no e have ever had this characteristic. I've asked a few of my local crew and one rider says his kite does the same. Think he has an old 08 cab xbow.
Both of these kites have the bridle connected to the rear lines via a pulley........ So I'm starting to wonder...???
Could this flyinv characteristic be something that goes hand in hand with this bridal to rear line configuration??
Has anybody experienced this??
It mostly happens when kite is trying to turn in the opposite direction...... Think its the kite shifting it force from one bridal & rear line to the other.
I've done multiple google search's and I've read that there is problems with the REVs P-line stretching/shrinking.
This isn't the problem, coz all my p-lines are correct sizes. So I'm thinking this sloppyness is caused by the bridle set up????
I've been reading and searching about this since Chrissy time, and I've finally got the tools and parts to make something up, all I need is the time (and knowledge)
I've seen discussions of aftermarket bridles for the SS link & SS revs.......
Does anybody have some info about them??
I'm considering just making one....... And I really wanna put this new D-splicer I've bought to good use ........
I wanna get rid of the bridle to rear line set up , and swap it out to a direct rear line (maybe even with a support line to the old pulley attachment) and hopefully I can swap out the bridal because obviously if I remove the rear line configuration the bridle will be too long.
Its a messy head f*** job , but I bet you all wish you could do it.
Any tips or advice??
Has it been done?
Can it be done properly??
Is there any other bridle configurations I should copy.
What's your thoughts??
Cheers??
If you take off the P lines in the small sizes it wont make huge differences. But it'd be a great experiment to make a new bridal. Because im sure the Revs are screwed by now and the kite wouldn't behave like it used to.
It'd take a bit of tweaking but let us know how you go.
It's the pulleys that are too small and cause the P lines to twist as they go through the pulley
and thus become shorter...
Easy fix.. 20bucks for some better pulleys from any whitworths or twice the price from .. well you know where
I played a lot with some 2012 Argo's, they had many attachment points for bar pressure, turning speed and what they called drift from memory. I would say I learnt alot but what started out as fun eventually became frustrating.
I was only after one thing though, increased stability at the top end. I'm like 115kgs and almost always taking kites outside their designated wind range.
Couple of things I noticed, may help. Argo's had what I call a high "y" moving this up and down the line length made for significant changes. Unless you went too high and then (by choking I guess) massive instability. The more open the profile, little more hangtime but definitely at the expense of turning speed.
These kites had a 3 point bridle (I think) and shifting the relative positions up and down the kite changed how deep it sat in the window. Again to a point.
I also used those little digital scales between kite and bridle connections to measure the load at each point, thinking that it should be similar at most positions in the window.
In the end I just worked out which settings I liked and left them in the stock positions (did replace pullies for sliders though).
One thing for sure small changes can make a difference, but I suspect always at the expense of something else. Must be why there's so many different kites on the market.
Just make sure you do your testing in a safe spot, I'm sure you will learn something new. I for one respect how much knowledge these kite designers must have.
Just on a side note, I ride nitro4's now and have just setup a 5 line bar to ride an old c kite. I've noticed photos of Mark Jacobs running nitros as a 5 line C. This will be another learning excecise I suspect, I'm pretty sure some other kites (suspect open c's) can be configured like this also.
Good luck
Couple of quick thoughts...
Google rev design and read as many kite blogs as possible.
Setup quick swap on your bridle, so you can test difference in same conditions.
looking at the last few years a couple of manufacturers have tried a few new things. North Dyno, Slingy Rpm and switch with the spider bridle come to mind. Time will tell if they are game changes as other manufactures will be forced to copy.
If I had sliders etc, I'd start by looking at the rpm, if I had a fixed bridle look along the switch bridle.
In my case I want a slightly cleaner loop, hence dropping back to c's for a test. What I see in overpowered conditions (wingtip flare) I assume switches new bridle will fix. I can see me having a crack at a copy of this in the next few months.
I would try lengthening the first bridle line closest to the center of the kite by a few cm
tie off the pulley on the wing tip ( remove pulley, replace with fixed line )
Get a V setup for the Turing line, change the V until turning feels right
You should be able to get the kite flying better and without pulleys
It's the cross over line between the front power line and the steering line it shrinks causing it to steer and act funny u can still buy bridles from slingshot .... Email them
Select to expand quoteRAL INN said..
Just don't make it like a LINK
I was about to say the same.
BUT a LINK can be made into a good kite, with the right bridle setup.
Sliders are small rings that can be used as pulley points for lower tensioned lines.
Look at all them pretty colors!!
Personally I prefer these ones
Yep, check that all your pulleys are running freely, free of sand, salt and not worn along the running edge. This is common with time. Check that the line is not worn too that runs through the pulleys. This could explain why the kite will not move across the window freely.
