So after my "Cant wait to get out" post, I f i n a l l y got around to finding out wtf is going on.
On both kites I replaced the original delaminating valves with u-stick valves, and now they are delaminating the same way.
Its not peeling off the kite from the sticky stuff, its peeling off from itself.
What is annoying is that the black valves from the bladder to the struts have never failed, its only the blue ones (inflate, deflate and dump) that fail. Manufacturers - Make the valves out of the black stuff FFS!! 
So before I spring for another 6 valves and around $180 is there a better way??? 
(exact same issue as www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Kitesurfing/Review/flexifoil-leaky-valves/ )
...and before the "hot car blah bah blah" starts - I live in WA - it gets hot, unless I keep it in an esky, its gonna get hot at some point between my house and the beach. 
Old fuels, 2003-5 had the same issue. The cheapest fix was to peel off the valve.(most of them fell off). Use proper acetone sparingly and wipe the bladder and valve,(not too much cause it kind of melts the bladder material). use tarzan grip and coat both the valve and bladder. put a piece of folded over kitchen towelor tissue in the bladder hole to stop the bladder sticking together. Wait till tacky and stick down. Use some dumbell weights to put pressure on your join. the hole in the weight is a nice size for the nozzle, leave for 24 hours.
Ive tried many glues this was the best fix. Its a flexible rubbery join that lasted the kite without any more fixes. Hope this helps.
a new bladder is generally cheaper than messing around with an old one and buying valves, also some brands have had problems for a while with delam valves, north had dramas up till 2011, flexifoil, blade, for example a new le bladder for my edges costs around $80 so go new, what brand of kite is it
Flexifoil. I missed that bit too cauncy. I did the same thing as above with flexifoil. 2008-09 had the same issues although it was had to spot a leaky valve cause of the double layer of bladder material over the valves. I cut these off. made a circle double the size of the valve diameter and tarzan gripped an extra layer over the top of the bladder. This is not an issue with WA heat it is an issue with the heat process putting them on. there is no glue they tried to melt the 2 layers together, one thin one thick. the lamination process wasnt hot enough.
you will find that all the valves will be stuffed. Pull the bladder and struts out and just do it all at once.
Select to expand quotecauncy said..
a new bladder is generally cheaper than messing around with an old one and buying valves, also some brands have had problems for a while with delam valves, north had dramas up till 2011, flexifoil, blade, for example a new le bladder for my edges costs around $80 so go new, what brand of kite is it
Problem is the bladder will come with the same fittings, blue valves. And the same laminating processs. Tarzan grip works, I wouldnt replace one spark plug, waiting for the next one to give way, Id just service the system.
Hey steve was on to it.... I didnt want to bag a brand on a public forum. tarzan grip works..
Select to expand quotedave...... said..
Hey steve was on to it.... I didnt want to bag a brand on a public forum. tarzan grip works..
not bagging brands, flexifoil are on to this and are now using valves that can handle 120deg +,ive never had issues using a valve using tearaid type A, as kp mentioned wrinkles can effect the valve and having someone else holding the bladder flat assists, don't forget to use alcohol wipes and apply when fully dry, ive just done a 2010 rebel and every valve apart from the dump was needing replacement, cheaper to put in new
also worth checking the diameter of aftermarket valves as they can be a seriouse pain to feed through the opening, also if too slack you get the bladder pinching,
Select to expand quoterod_bunny said..
So after my "Cant wait to get out" post, I f i n a l l y got around to finding out wtf is going on.
On both kites I replaced the original delaminating valves with u-stick valves, and now they are delaminating the same way.
Its not peeling off the kite from the sticky stuff, its peeling off from itself.
What is annoying is that the black valves from the bladder to the struts have never failed, its only the blue ones (inflate, deflate and dump) that fail. Manufacturers - Make the valves out of the black stuff FFS!!
So before I spring for another 6 valves and around $180 is there a better way???
Replying to the post, I advised on a cheap solution. it works. the rest is wank value.
(exact same issue as www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Kitesurfing/Review/flexifoil-leaky-valves/ )
...and before the "hot car blah bah blah" starts - I live in WA - it gets hot, unless I keep it in an esky, its gonna get hot at some point between my house and the beach.
Replying to the post, I advised on a cheap solution. it works. the rest is wank value. Me thinks he doesnt want to spend more money on a product that doesnt meet the intended need.
hey mate,Select to expand quoterod_bunny said..
So after my "Cant wait to get out" post, I f i n a l l y got around to finding out wtf is going on.
On both kites I replaced the original delaminating valves with u-stick valves, and now they are delaminating the same way.
Its not peeling off the kite from the sticky stuff, its peeling off from itself.
What is annoying is that the black valves from the bladder to the struts have never failed, its only the blue ones (inflate, deflate and dump) that fail. Manufacturers - Make the valves out of the black stuff FFS!!
So before I spring for another 6 valves and around $180 is there a better way???
(exact same issue as www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Kitesurfing/Review/flexifoil-leaky-valves/ )
...and before the "hot car blah bah blah" starts - I live in WA - it gets hot, unless I keep it in an esky, its gonna get hot at some point between my house and the beach.
mate most of the stick on valves will come off. additionally you have to use sallys pu glue on top to make them last.
we repair lots of valves and they never come off again after we put them back on.
www.intheloopkiteboarding.com/repairs
www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Kitesurfing/General/New-Valves/#1327931
Ive had the exact same problem, its a know problem form airtime
Valve trap fixed mine no dramas
The valve trap looks like a good product... but then they all do. I had the same problem a few weeks ago. I just removed the ustick adhesive base and glued the remaining replacement valve collar with Stormsure glue (from Clarkes Rubber). I had seen Tarzans Grip being touted as usable along with Stormsure but I can tell you from my experience if you have to go with glue the Stormsusre is bulletproof. Professional kite repairers say never use glue if you can avoid it - for ease of removal. The easiest option is to get a kite shop to fix it.
Another trick if you are using any brand of the "U" Stick variety of replacements.
After rubbing back with alcohol swipe/turps/acetone etc leave it stand for a few minutes before applying the replacement.
The surface will appear totally clean & dry but from experience there must be some invisible residue that needs a bit more time to evaporate.
Only trouble we have ever had with any replacement valves is when we have cleaned & stuck without a break.
And if you are using acetone - it works extremely well btw - be extraordinarily cautious as too much or too long will eat the bladder.
We use it all the time but we wait for the cloth to be just damp, wipe the area thoroughly but quickly then immediately wipe with clean paper towel & or a spray from the detergent bottle then paper towel. I reckon the acetone wipe leaves the surface more glue friendly than other wipes. Just imo?
Thanks for all the replies and PMs and advice (I do love this forum) 
Appears to still be an issue and that some of the valve brands have had issues in the past as well.
To be fair, its the second time in over 6 years I've had to repair or replace anything on my Ion2s.
Very generous KPA 
, but I got them from a local shop over here. Nice to know your aftersales is spot on though 
I'll be getting some sort of stickons to replace the ones that failed. I will ellicit more hands for keeping the wrinkles out
Select to expand quotecauncy said..
also worth checking the diameter of aftermarket valves as they can be a seriouse pain to feed through the opening, also if too slack you get the bladder pinching,
True dat.
When I did the last lot I cut a hole in the base of the flexi ones as they had a ridge on them to lock them to the leading edge material, then fed the new valves into the old ones. Stops the smaller diameter valves disappearing back into the leading edge when deflated.
Select to expand quoterod_bunny said...cauncy said..
also worth checking the diameter of aftermarket valves as they can be a seriouse pain to feed through the opening, also if too slack you get the bladder pinching,
True dat.
When I did the last lot I cut a hole in the base of the flexi ones as they had a ridge on them to lock them to the leading edge material, then fed the new valves into the old ones. Stops the smaller diameter valves disappearing back into the leading edge when deflated.
A good tip is to use a small piece of broom handle which I taper off, pushing it into the valve opening stretches it a tad allowing it to position easier in the opening if it's a different diameter, also if replacing north valves with aftermarket valves the tube clip doesn't suit the aftermarket valves ,
I've repaired a few valves over the years on my North kites using Tarzan Grip and have never had one unstick again. Question though, why are valves not inserted from the INSIDE of the bladder? Would seem to make sense, to me anyway!?
Select to expand quotecoastflyer said..
I've repaired a few valves over the years on my North kites using Tarzan Grip and have never had one unstick again. Question though, why are valves not inserted from the INSIDE of the bladder? Would seem to make sense, to me anyway!?
because theyre made by factory workers not geinocologists
Select to expand quotecoastflyer said..
I've repaired a few valves over the years on my North kites using Tarzan Grip and have never had one unstick again. Question though, why are valves not inserted from the INSIDE of the bladder? Would seem to make sense, to me anyway!?
The Flexi valves were welded on the inside.
Select to expand quotecauncy said..rod_bunny said...cauncy said..
also worth checking the diameter of aftermarket valves as they can be a seriouse pain to feed through the opening, also if too slack you get the bladder pinching,
True dat.
When I did the last lot I cut a hole in the base of the flexi ones as they had a ridge on them to lock them to the leading edge material, then fed the new valves into the old ones. Stops the smaller diameter valves disappearing back into the leading edge when deflated.
A good tip is to use a small piece of broom handle which I taper off, pushing it into the valve opening stretches it a tad allowing it to position easier in the opening if it's a different diameter, also if replacing north valves with aftermarket valves the tube clip doesn't suit the aftermarket valves ,
Use Valve traps and you can reuse the stock North valve that fell off.
Fixed kites yesterday!
Current Wind Action 
(on my bday no less) 
annnnnnnnd time to get my drunk on
Select to expand quotedave...... said...rod_bunny said..
So after my "Cant wait to get out" post, I f i n a l l y got around to finding out wtf is going on.
On both kites I replaced the original delaminating valves with u-stick valves, and now they are delaminating the same way.
Its not peeling off the kite from the sticky stuff, its peeling off from itself.
What is annoying is that the black valves from the bladder to the struts have never failed, its only the blue ones (inflate, deflate and dump) that fail. Manufacturers - Make the valves out of the black stuff FFS!!
So before I spring for another 6 valves and around $180 is there a better way???
Replying to the post, I advised on a cheap solution. it works. the rest is wank value.
(exact same issue as www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Kitesurfing/Review/flexifoil-leaky-valves/ )
...and before the "hot car blah bah blah" starts - I live in WA - it gets hot, unless I keep it in an esky, its gonna get hot at some point between my house and the beach.
Replying to the post, I advised on a cheap solution. it works. the rest is wank value. Me thinks he doesnt want to spend more money on a product that doesnt meet the intended need.
Dave are you sponsored by Tarzan grip? 
Yes, this is my first post!! Fairly new at this sport including kite repairs and as there's no repair shops here I recently did some research for a valve self-repair. Lots of info on the net was related to the preparation of replacing stick on valves but as mine was the welded on type this info wasn't of much use but then I found this YouTube link, followed it and months later the new valve doesn't look like it's going anywhere. Only thing I would do different next time would be to purchase a replacement valve with an XL base. That's my 2 cents worth.
I am not sure what glue seems to work for you guys, but I read somewhere that most bladders (I hope anyway!) are made from Polyutherane. So I looked around Bunnings and lo-and-behold Stikaflex which tradies use more for mortar filler or brick work is a Polyutherane based compound. I recently popped a valve on my kite (those cheapo glues just don't last) and simply gave the valve a good dose of Stikaflex (white or clear) and that valve ain't coming off. The other good thing about Stikaflex is that it's water proof and flexes which is what you need once the bladder is pumped and deflated hundreds of times.
ps. InTheLoop - what glue do you use or are you simply repairing people's kites with KiteFix valves? I have a KiteFix repair kit and I must say, that so called "strong bonding" glue they sell is total rubbish. Crumbles when dry and has very little hold on the valves. But then again I've never used it on the actual bladder for a normal bladder repair, so maybe KiteFix should consider supplying two glues - one for the bladder and one for valves (or double-adhesive rings for valves). Just saying.
Select to expand quoteLoftywinds said..
I am not sure what glue seems to work for you guys, but I read somewhere that most bladders (I hope anyway!) are made from Polyutherane. So I looked around Bunnings and lo-and-behold Stikaflex which tradies use more for mortar filler or brick work is a Polyutherane based compound. I recently popped a valve on my kite (those cheapo glues just don't last) and simply gave the valve a good dose of Stikaflex (white or clear) and that valve ain't coming off. The other good thing about Stikaflex is that it's water proof and flexes which is what you need once the bladder is pumped and deflated hundreds of times.
DOnt use your valve for about 48 hours though
Sikaflex drys in from the air at a rate of about 4mm per 24 hours, so if you have a large patch of glue it will still be uncured in the middle
And like all glues it is only as good as the preparation
Stikaflex has a cheap version which is like clag, make sure you invest in the more expensive tube.
Sorry if I am daft, but there is a variety of 'tarzan grips" at bunnings. Is the one everyone is talking about this one below?
Select to expand quotecoastflyer said..
I've repaired a few valves over the years on my North kites using Tarzan Grip and have never had one unstick again. Question though, why are valves not inserted from the INSIDE of the bladder? Would seem to make sense, to me anyway!?
To quote myself, which is kind of strange!! I have had to repair nearly every single valve on my old 2009 North Rebel and I have reused the original valves by folding the valve body and carefully inserting in through the bladder hole. Once inside the bladder, apply the glue (Tarzans Grip), and then on a hard flat surface, place the weights over the valve and let dry. The great thing about this method is that you can reuse the original valve and it gives the joint a mechanical advantage, as compared to attaching to the OUTSIDE of the bladder. The repaired valves have never leaked and with quick drying glue, could be done down at the beach, if you were really desperate!
