Yesterday while kiting near Floreat poopipe the shorebreak smashed my board on to my kite bar and caused what I thought was a long ding across the nose.
I was doing a downwinder so kept going.
Half way back to Scabs the board just stopped and sent me flying over the top of it.
Middle section of glass peeled from nose to tail...
I guess the glass was broken after all.
Can this be fixed? Any estimates at what it would cost to fix...
Looks simple and might be a good DIY adventure for me.
Glad I didn't sell the hammer, as I'm now back on old faithful.
:(
You could fix this yourself, infact you should probably give it a go if you feel you want to, I mean what have you go to loose? 20 bucks in resin, a bit of cloth (could probably get offcuts), do some light sanding around the area first and give it a go. Your board will still work fine for kiting even if you do a sh1t job ;).
p.s. I've seen so many Rusty boards broken.
Yeah, easy job, sand the pealed section and sand down edges to the remaining glass.
Block the FCS plugs with wax.
Mask off the rails or remaining glass and cut one layer of 6o glass to fit. Get what you need from Surf Supplies / Colin Earl Ozzie Park.
Use UV catalyst if you dont think that you can laminate fast enough or its the first time.
Thanks for the responses. Makes me feel better knowing the board won't go to the surfboard graveyard.
It's actually a really nice board to kite with. I've had it for two seasons now.
Would like to get a few more out of it.
When you say sand the peeled section. This part is the foam. What coarse paper do you suggest to use. I know it has to be rough for the glass to take to it, but never had to the glass straight on the foam before. I'm imagining using some rough stuff and watching bits of foam getting pulled out and flying everywhere :P
Minor repairs i've done before is an fcs fin plug, and a few dings and a small hole where my harness went through the top.
I would suggest using a vacuum pump and bag. You can just slap some glass on it and hope for the best.
With vac pump and bag the result will be perfect.
No, you can't fix it. I'll save you some time and money y you giving it to me!
What I would do is cut and peel the rest off on the bottom following the contour of the rail, either use a utility knife and cut following the rail or carefully use an angle grinder with a 1mm cutting disk and cut. Remember that you will have to sand the flowcoat off down to the fibre glass to allow for a strong bond.
Once that is done, shamfer the edge of the rail glass, fill in any creases / dings with Q-cell and resin. Use play dough or blue tack and fill the FCS plugs so no resin can fill them.
Get yourself a squeegee (this is a must) and not a window cleaning one, 4 / 6 Oz glass mat (Kirkside in Ozborne park should supply everything or even try Katana or the other bloke (can't remember his name but use google). Cut the glass so that it overlaps the rail by 2 inches or so. Pour the resin along the stringer line and spread it about working out towards the rail. Once all nicely wetted out (without to much excess (puddle, etc) and lap the 2 inch overlap.
Once dry, sand it removing any snot and lumps and bumps, and blend in the overlap.
Get some flow coat / gel coat ( resin with waxol in it ) and paint it on with brush, the resin will flow and smooth itself out. Once dry, water paper until you are happy or tired.
Good Luck.
Rich
Hmm - I cant believe that the panel removed itself so neatly -the lines from tip to tail seem so neat as to suggest a manufacturing failure ?? I have bugger all experience with poly boards - but that looks simply amazing !! Eitherway its happened so as you ask what now ? I have spent quite a bit of time fixing epoxy windsurfing boards and the biggest PITA is getting bubbles out from under what I thought was a good repair...... given the 'area' you are looking at re-laminating I agree with the comment regarding a vacuum bag system.
Only issue is that to vacuum bag a board repair needs a bit of gear to get it all to work - so that leaves you in the decision doldrums of fork out the cash and get the gear needed for vacuum bag, or pay someone to do it right, or have the best go you can and accept that it will look ****e and may not be the best repair to extened the life of your board.
Re the sanding thing - go light as its already the bottom shape of the board - in fact I reckon if the bottom sheet has been ripped off the key-ways will be there without any sanding - the issue for me would be to key in the new glass to the old glass - hence the comments around shamphering the existing skin .
I agree with most of the above comments - quite repairable but needs to be done carefully so that it gives you the strenght you need but it doesnt end up weighing tonne (I've got one of those !!)
Cheers Lambie
You have the perfect board now to experiment with. Google thomo surfboards. FireWire have just released a thomo model. Cut that nose off, add some channels, reglass and give that board the thrashing death it deserves. 
newo - that is something else -- pic's are worth 1000+ words... 
I like playing and building and fiddling.... So if U R of the same mind set - all the yep - go for it tips R good.
I would follow richswing's suggestion and peel the lot. U might have water damage under one of Ur fins anyway (where it is black).
I have defaulted on using epoxy (kinetix 104h 125h - not thru' specialist knowledge but recommended at glass shop and has lasted 1+ years as I gradually use it up) - Last job I did a flood coat and easy as - pulled the masking tape off after approx 2 hours well before fully cured - I find less hassle cleaning up / and sanding edges. Might consider 2 layers of glass -lighter weave of cloth and decent sand between 1st & 2nd.. the layering really adds strength (but at a weight penalty - hence the sanding)..
Cost - well I invested in the resin (>$200 from memory) as I had paddle boards (epoxy based - nippers equipment (newbie volunteer
) & dodgey surf boards to fix and both my boys now patch / fix as well. The rest is fairly cheap. The standard resin (polyester?? not epoxy) was cheaper - but more toxic and the mix with the hardner I had was fiddly for small jobs as the ratio was 5 to 1 and in humid conditions was not so easy to use when starting 101 glassing 
+ the hardner had a short shelf life - i.e. good for constant production but not for irregular repairs.
I also did a bulk buy of SOLAREZ from the importer ($12 / tube) - this stuff used well is great for small quick patches (have this and repair bog in the car
) - retailed at $24 -38
.
If U go for it would like to see the pics...
Suppose U must have ridden board back to shore like that - hoping it would not break..
Cheers
AP
Fully fixable no biggy dude, get some resin and cloth, two layers of 4 ounce and squeegy it on allow to dry over night sand to your happy touch up any area and be careful not to sand through glass if you can see cloth pattern again stop sanding that area!!! ur back on the water in a couple of days :) its when your stringer snaps or your board is creased between your stance that you send her to the grave :(
