Hi Guys
I am strapless in the bay on my 5.6 surfboard and getting slowly better. I much prefer being able to move and stand in exactly the right spot to eek out the boards performance, as opposed to the fixed straps.
However I had a session in the proper surf (about 2m) over Easter. There were about 6 breaks to get through and I had real trouble keeping my feet on the board going out over the waves. No matter how slow I tried to go over the steep unbroken waves the board would fall off and blow back as the back of the wave fell away. I would then get creamed by the sets and have to get my board from the beach. How do you stop the board falling off, please?
Also I have a very old real leash, does anyone use one in the surf when there are so many breaks in the line up? Would it be just as dangerous as a leg rope, or even worse?
Hi Adfreetv,
I'm assuming you are talking about an unbroken wave. The trick is to slow to an almost halt as you climb the wave face, then loop the kite downwind (downturn) to accellerate after the wave has passed. Another option is to carve on the wave face downwind so you are running almost downwind as you go over the crest, this stops you getting airborne by crossing the crest at an acute angle rather than perpendicular to the approaching wave.
Ypou can also do the opposite and crank the board high upwind and pinch the board to cross at again, a much shallower angle than perpendicular. This also loads your lines which gives your kite more apparent wind and allows you to crank a faster, tighter turn than if you bear away from the wind. You need to loop the kite on the upwind angle approach just as you crest the wave.
Keep your knees bent a lot to prevent the board from falling away. Allow your knees to compress your legs up to maximum so you have maximum extension available to you. I've nearly knocked my front teeth out when going over waves strapless by doing this. This gives you an indication of the sort of compression/extension you can use.
Sure hope this helps.
DM
Thanks DM. Great answer, I can see what you mean.
Seems lots of patience and practice is also required.
Cheers
I'm guessing you are probably slowing down by raising kite high which then just lifts you off the board when going down the trough behind the wave.
Short answer - dive kite low before you go over the top of wave.
I can't really comment on strapless (because I've got straps) but there's two things I do that help.
- Ride over the wave toeside and carve slightly heelside as you go over. It stops you getting boosted and puts you in a good position to accelerate towards the next wave.
- On the bay practice getting a little toeside air off the chop. Over cooking a heelside air often ends up in a slide out on your bum but toeside air tends to get you into a better position to carve out the landing. It feels good too.
- Also practice getting strapless chop hops. It's not so much a jump as levering the front of the board up in the air with your back foot, then stomping it down with the front foot.
A bit of practice then takle a bigger day than you'd normally be comfortable with.
There will be more difficult waves to deal with and more of them, youll be forced to get it right quickly.
Then everything else will seem easier after that.
i found when i first started in the waves it was easier to walk out as deep as possible then water drag past the breakers whilst laying on your board....timing is everything though
If you come off your edge and stand up straight you will slow down. Riding slightly towards your kite will also depower you.
Approaching the wave standing tall you have lots of room to bend your legs to suck up the impact.
You can also edge up hard into wind before you reach the wave to slow down, then come off the edge to ease over it.
The one thing you don't want is to be edging hard when you hit the wave because then you will go get popped into the air.
BTW A 5'6" board is really small for a big guy like you.
More BTW Riding among the waves (strapped) is easy and fun. Actually catching a wave and shutting down the kite and surfing the wave is really hard. Getting a wind direction that complements the wave direction is pretty rare unless you actively search out wave spots.
Adfree, It's hard, don't be put off. I still fall lots at this. I'll give you my pointers, the more perpectives the better. Then it's up to you to decipher for yourself.
Point upwind heading up the face to kill speed, momentum will lift you up.
Use up all the travel of your suspension (legs) to maintain contact to the board & water. But with steeper/bigger waves this isn't possible. Leaving the water & your front foot needs to have been placed over the centreline as opposed to the rail. It's a delicate touch to maintain contact with the board without pushing it away, allowing your legs to soak up the board towards you as you're leaving the water gives you more chance of staying with it. Anyway back to the leaving the water bit, bank the board into the wind, that's what'll hold it against your feet. That can mean bank 1 rail down or tail down nose up.
Then with the kite I have it low in front, turning it up just as I'm going over the top,- I think?
I think you need to assess each situation for yourself as to whether to use a leash, I wouldn't just say no. Light onshore for instance you can lose an aweful lot of ground chasing a board & kites these days have incredible depower so you won't be getting dragged like in the old days.
Hope that helps
Col
It's all about experience.
Just play around with a wave you know your confident on.
Eventually you'll get a better wave than your average and that will become your average.
pffftt, have noticed when a bit of size in swell there's more board chasers than a house wifes ironing picnic in a huricane
maybe place straps in most universal position on board and move body wieght around so that way you can speed to wave flick kite pull in bar jump over wave down loop kite turn ride wave if you look like going over the falls pull bar in land out of white water ride away 
