Forums > Kitesurfing General

Putting a bed over kite gear in a van

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Created by Smedg > 9 months ago, 14 Jan 2009
Smedg
NSW, 836 posts
14 Jan 2009 11:42PM
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Just bought an awesome van so I can keep all my kite gear in it all the time and have a bed where ever when ever. I got plenty of space so I'll be putting a queen size in. I want to have the bed in there all the time with my boards and kites etc under it. A queen size will fit from the back door up to just forward of the sliding door hinges, leaving about 3 or 4 feet of open room behind the seats or 3 to 4 foot open space at the back if I put the bed up to the back of the seats.

Any wise seabreezer's got any advice on keeping things rust and sand free(ish), or on Bed installation ideas. I'm on a real tight budget as I fell in love with a van $1000 more than I hoped to spend. Its so clean to use for kiting and currently very close to rust free, so I'm going to try make it last.

All advice appreciated.

colinwill78
VIC, 1395 posts
14 Jan 2009 11:46PM
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not a huige help to ya smedg, but i saw it on a video once... 10k i think it was called. Find that for some inspiration.

myusernam
QLD, 6154 posts
14 Jan 2009 11:07PM
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hey i had a van as my first car in the windsurfin days.

I personally would load from the back. much easier (so leave space at back)
usually have more room than trying to squeeze in beside other cars to get to the side.
If you just use a foam mattress you can fold it over to lift up panels of the bed base to get to things up the back.

You could put in an lcd and an 12v beer fridge (not cheap I know)

What about a big poly pipe water tank (free from plumber mate) and a $200 sureflow water blaster demand pump? Means you have garden hose style pressure fresh water as soon as you turn on the tap.

also curtains are good so the sun doesn't wake you up after a big night. also good for sleepovers.


You could check out the maui wind/kitesurfing vans on the web for ideas

tobes
NSW, 1000 posts
15 Jan 2009 12:14AM
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What you need is a platform. How's your carpentry?
Here's mine, tools below and kite stuff above here.
Foam mattress is a good call.

kitecrazzzy
WA, 2184 posts
15 Jan 2009 1:14AM
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I have a box 600X600X1200 in the van that the boards go into the top of (fits two bindings or like 4 straps) and on the shelf below a plastic bin fits with all my wet stuff. It serves as a table in the back as there are seats behind it. The seats fold down and a table that I have spans the gap between the seats and the table. It makes a 7 foot bed 130cm wide so not that big for two but can be done.

Just make things that large boxes fit in perfectly so you can store stuff and access it as easily.

I'll get a photo up tomorrow.

(I came online this late cus I needed to see if I got a Uni offer)

stoked2surf
WA, 43 posts
15 Jan 2009 1:51AM
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heres mine
managed to get all the materials for free so it cost me nothing
my carpentry isnt great but it does the job
i also made up a plywood floor so to clean it all i hav to do is brush it out





hope that gives u some ideas

cheers

Smedg
NSW, 836 posts
15 Jan 2009 10:46PM
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Thanks... This is exactly the advice I'm after. At the moment the entire back of the van is lined with black carpet like stuff. the floor is carpety stuff on thin ply. (Haven't decided wether to leave the floor covering in or not. I think I will 'cause it all looks so neat and can easily be pulled out to give the occasional clean. It also cuts road noise a little and kinda insulates a little bit. At the moment I'm imagining using something like marine ply as a bed base (three sections so it can be taken in and out) with legs 30 or 40mm in from the sides of the van. I'm thinking I may be able to do this in a way that nothing is actually mounted to the van. Just cutting the ply to fit the contours of the walls (as they are thickly carpeted). I'm imagining four legs on the head of the bed piece of ply and the same for the bottom of the bed bit of ply. The middle piece would share the legs of the other two pieces, but just sit on them not joint. (kinda fall in the gap between other two pieces.) My van being as cool as it is has a sliding door on each side which is mega good I reckon. I'm leaning towards having the spare (non bed) space just behind the seats so for other everyday stuff, you can just reach over or use a side door, leaving the bed nice and clean with surf board twinny 2 kites, pump bar/lines harness, wet gear all loaded under the bed from the back in tubs and or board bags. I'm hoping that the marine ply or alike will span the distance without really sagging and without any supporting legs in the middle. (remembering that I plan on having the side legs in a little from the side.) Also dreaming of ways to screen a window. Seems like every time I got a question Seabreezers are the best peeps to ask. Thanks again.

fashionvictim
WA, 10 posts
15 Jan 2009 8:57PM
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damn, you've made me want to go and get a van! deck it out all comfy and stuff. just don't forget the spot for the fridge! the beers don't get cold on themselves!

Smedg
NSW, 836 posts
16 Jan 2009 12:25AM
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yeah, i got four 12 volt power sockets sitting inline with the back of the seats. They are hooked to the main/ only battery at the moment though. Might have to change that. might see how I go first.

kitecrazzzy
WA, 2184 posts
15 Jan 2009 11:48PM
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Just make sure everything has a place. Nothing goes "on the top". I have stolen crates from Coles (3 in total ) that fit in like draws. and every other thing has "a place" like the table (used as the bed middle section) fits between the seats and the box.


I still do not know what to do about the mattresses as they take up a lot of room, with out spending money options are limited. I also like to be able to see around me so hight is limited. (can't understand how people drive with panel vans, must have blind spot mirrors)



The table needs some blocks for the future but I don't want to put them on as they will be a pain to have.



In real life it doesn't look as good as the photos cus I have that "make **** look better in photos skill"

sandgroper
WA, 368 posts
16 Jan 2009 12:13AM
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As above.

Use heavy grade angle iron for supporting the top frame, cut everything right and that may be all you need.

Keep it light as possible. Dont add vertical partitions underneath - just use crates & boxes sitting on thick carpet. Most of the time it will be empty underneath except when you travel, then it will be full, so everything will hold everything else nice and tight.

....oh, and Fisholene (any good paint shop) for the rust. Remove superficial rust first then Fisholene over whats left.


colinwill78
VIC, 1395 posts
16 Jan 2009 2:14AM
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nice rigs guys!

kitecrazzzy
WA, 2184 posts
16 Jan 2009 12:44AM
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I decided on what to do by looking at all the vans in lanno. There where 4 transporters with different styles. Non of the ones I looked at had back seats in them though. But the more people the smaller the share of fuel. What I will be doing next is a cargo cage for both the back and middle sections. Also make a permanent power set up and make board holders.

nickloop
WA, 138 posts
16 Jan 2009 2:51AM
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Ive done the same in my renault traffic van, raised floor to top of wheel arches and put 22mm ply floor over the top, at the front there is a hinged trap door where all my kite kit is at the back another trap door lifts from the back of van where all my tools are. Carpet the ply and hey presto all your gear is on board,and hidden and you have a empty van again. When tools not on under floor then houses bbq and all camping gear as I have a large awning that fits to side of van for weekend away. Booootiful. Ive put in 2 leisure batteries on a split charger to run my eski for 2 days all hidden.

myusernam
QLD, 6154 posts
16 Jan 2009 10:21AM
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Smedg said...

Thanks... This is exactly the advice I'm after. At the moment the entire back of the van is lined with black carpet like stuff. the floor is carpety stuff on thin ply. (Haven't decided wether to leave the floor covering in or not. I think I will 'cause it all looks so neat and can easily be pulled out to give the occasional clean. It also cuts road noise a little and kinda insulates a little bit. At the moment I'm imagining using something like marine ply as a bed base (three sections so it can be taken in and out) with legs 30 or 40mm in from the sides of the van. I'm thinking I may be able to do this in a way that nothing is actually mounted to the van. Just cutting the ply to fit the contours of the walls (as they are thickly carpeted). I'm imagining four legs on the head of the bed piece of ply and the same for the bottom of the bed bit of ply. The middle piece would share the legs of the other two pieces, but just sit on them not joint. (kinda fall in the gap between other two pieces.) My van being as cool as it is has a sliding door on each side which is mega good I reckon. I'm leaning towards having the spare (non bed) space just behind the seats so for other everyday stuff, you can just reach over or use a side door, leaving the bed nice and clean with surf board twinny 2 kites, pump bar/lines harness, wet gear all loaded under the bed from the back in tubs and or board bags. I'm hoping that the marine ply or alike will span the distance without really sagging and without any supporting legs in the middle. (remembering that I plan on having the side legs in a little from the side.) Also dreaming of ways to screen a window. Seems like every time I got a question Seabreezers are the best peeps to ask. Thanks again.


Hi smeg,
No need to use marine ply. Marine ply has to A grade veneers on each side for finish (and water intrusion) and is really only used in boats when used under the waterline. You can use plain old construction or exterior ply (commonly called CD ply where one veneer is c grade, the other D grade) from bunnings. The glue used to bind the veneers together is the same..only difference is there may be a few knots in the exterior sheet. give it a coat of paint before you put carpet on and face the best side up. difference in price is about 300%.

Also my two cents is that I would still be putting a vertical support under the bed or it will sag eventually - even with thick ply. And the weight of really thick stuff just braced by the edges would make it heavy. If it was me I would just use 1/2 inch (12mm) ply 2400*1200 sheets from bunnings for $50 and I would put two vertical stringers under the floor for support. these would also act like dividers for the gear underneath. or you could go heavier and have one vertical support.

Smedg
NSW, 836 posts
17 Jan 2009 11:40PM
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Cheers. Thanks again for the help everyone. I've gotten nowhere yet. spent about 2 hours in the rain today peeling all these company stickers off the van (there were a lot). Then spent about an hour in the rain at the beach watching the wind squalls swing between side shore and cross off gusty crap. ended up watching role models at the movies. funny ****.

My usernam, I'm not exactly sure what you mean by "I would put two vertical stringers under the floor for support." Does that mean two sheets running the length of the bed standing one their edge between the floor and the underside of the bed instead of using legs? ( I don't know what stringers are. PS should have read your reply before talking to a mate. I got laughed at.. haha. Apparently its obvious that marine ply is expensive and only needed for marine purposes. haha.

PS what should I clean sticky crap off with, from where the stickers were? hot water and dish soap didn't cut it and I don't want to wreck the paint. I've got all this truck wash left that got off a mate once when we used to ride dirt bikes. If i mix that up a little weak is that good to clean cars with or is it too harsh. it used to clean baked on mud and cow **** off engines and exhausts in no time. think it was called CT 18 or something.

PPS I'm hoping not to need to put wood across the floor that gets in the way of taking things in and out. tobes platform may be a hassle to get kite stuff in and out of all the time as the boxes you you put stuff in would have to be smaller than the openings at the back. I was dreaming of having enough height underneath the bed to fit my surfboard on its side. (to save space) This would make the bed base quite high but I'll need to measure more closely as I think I can do it and still have a foam mattress sit just below or in line with the bottom of the windows. Also, how long does fisholene stink for and are there alternatives? Thanks again.

stoked2surf
WA, 43 posts
18 Jan 2009 2:07AM
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Smedg said...



My usernam, I'm not exactly sure what you mean by "I would put two vertical stringers under the floor for support." Does that mean two sheets running the length of the bed standing one their edge between the floor and the underside of the bed instead of using legs? ( I don't know what stringers are. PS should have read your reply before talking to a mate. I got laughed at.. haha. Apparently its obvious that marine ply is expensive and only needed for marine purposes. haha.

PS what should I clean sticky crap off with, from where the stickers were? hot water and dish soap didn't cut it and I don't want to wreck the paint. I've got all this truck wash left that got off a mate once when we used to ride dirt bikes. If i mix that up a little weak is that good to clean cars with or is it too harsh. it used to clean baked on mud and cow **** off engines and exhausts in no time. think it was called CT 18 or something.



to the first thing. i think you have the gist of what he's talking about. if you look to the left of my first photo as an example i've put a thin panel of ply as described to add strength both sideways and from the top. as said before it also seperates the compartments. and yes marine ply is expensive and not necessary. my advice is hit the salvage yards for some cheap ply and pine. they usually have a few spare sheets lying round that you can pick up for a cheaper price

as for the sticky crap, theres stuff called orange solv, its a citrus mix and you can get it from most hardware stores (ie. bunnings, super cheap auto etc.) for a couple of bucks. does the job well and as far as i know it doesnt affect the paint at all

bobdaboarder
NSW, 185 posts
18 Jan 2009 10:20AM
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could fit a tonne of gear and plenty of room for 2 to sleep.even had one sleeping underneath on snow trips.



safetyboy
NSW, 58 posts
18 Jan 2009 10:46AM
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Smedg said...
PS what should I clean sticky crap off with, from where the stickers were? hot water and dish soap didn't cut it and I don't want to wreck the paint. I've got all this truck wash left that got off a mate once when we used to ride dirt bikes. If i mix that up a little weak is that good to clean cars with or is it too harsh. it used to clean baked on mud and cow **** off engines and exhausts in no time. think it was called CT 18 or something.


I once parked my brand new car under a tree, and ended up with tiny bits of sap all over it that just wouldn't come off.

After searching the net, I found "Overspray Clay" - it is a clay bar that you rub over the paint - lubricated by their quick detailing fluid - when the paint it clean it runs over smoothly, but if there are contaminants on the paint they will adhere to the clay:

www.meguiars.com.au

It was a pretty tedious process, but I have never had a paint finish come up so clean - it was like showroom again.

A mate has a 2 year old Mini Cooper, and got tired of the British flag on the roof. It was just a big sticker - he pulled it off and was left with a lot of sticky adhesive - he used Clay to get it off.

As per the name, it's original role in life was to get overspray off other cars when spraypainting.

Only thing to note is that you need to apply a good polish afterwards - it takes any protective coating that may have been in place off.

SB

Smedg
NSW, 836 posts
18 Jan 2009 11:21AM
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@ rob 1977. That's exactly how I want mine. No wasted space. perfect. Does the ply sag much in the middle when you lay on it? Do you still have enough room to sit up in bed (assumming you are on the top bunk )

mattyjee
WA, 575 posts
18 Jan 2009 2:37PM
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Use petrol on a rag to get the sticker glue off. Wont wreck the paint either.

Smedg
NSW, 836 posts
18 Jan 2009 9:47PM
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Not sure if anyone other than me is still interested but I used some citrus scented stuff called ooomph from bunnings to clean sticky crap off. worked instantly and easy. Also I tested some different sized plys and they all sag too much over the 1530mm width of a queen bed (and the distance across the back in the van) if not supported. I'm thinking of forking out for some form ply which was way better in the sag department. Still planning on building legs instead of joining anything to the van at this stage.

Anyone know where I can get a whirly bird from? (one of those spinny vent things)

tobes
NSW, 1000 posts
18 Jan 2009 10:36PM
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I wouldn't try to span the width of your van with ply alone.
If you really want to have no structure underneath, I find the partitions pretty useful, then you will need to stiffen your plywood bed base with something, for example screwing a few 70 x 35 pine battens on flat to the underside of 12mm plywood.
You should be able to get a spinning vent through any car spare parts place.
So, what van did you get? How about a "before" pic?

Fooosh
WA, 563 posts
18 Jan 2009 11:13PM
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Sticker glue remover: acetone

Window blackouts: Custom cut padded silver sunshades (curtains hang straight, not as good)

Mattress: Try an Ikea sofa bed one - they're pretty comfy and fold easy, reasonable price

Padding / soundproofing / flooring / insulation for wall and ceiling cover: 1/2" Thick foam floor matting - cheap, interlocking tiles, can cut to fit

Space arrangement: I'd put the bed right up the front. If you've got a lift up back, that will give you some shade / rain cover and you can set up your kitchen, seat, etc on the tailgate. If you're getting fancy, try the boat fitters for ideas - I saw a van in Germany once, it was a-may-zing. All mod cons in a kombi!!! Fold down shower well, etc, etc!

Secret / locked spot: Don't forget to build this in for your valuables

Make sure you post some before / after photos!!

kiter789
NSW, 238 posts
19 Jan 2009 10:01AM
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I was a bit worried about rust - especially seeing as my van had a few big rust holes in it already. So, here's my low-fi solution - I actually replaced the single foam mattress with a new double one from IKEA - they are good (you can move them easily).

I lived in this van for ages last summer. All the living crap (utensils, food, tools etc) went in the milk crates, and the crates formed a 'tunnel' gap between which I slotted all the kite gear. This tunnel stopped all the gear sliding around on those racey 60 km/h corners.

The advantage of this system is that you can haul it all out easily for a spot of riveting/welding/bogging.

I have to say - people scoffed at this arrangement. No, really, they did! But it actually worked incredibly well. The only thing I would have added (before I sold it) would have been bug screens on the windows.

Cost;
- new schmick mattress of extreme comfyness; $200
- piece of 16mm ply cut to size by nice man at bunnings; about $20 I think
- crates...ah....

rusty7
QLD, 504 posts
19 Jan 2009 10:32AM
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There is a product from Dotmar Plastics called "Uni Board" there are a couple of types Uni board Eco and uniboard ultra stiff. These are Polyethlene and Poplypropylene blended products. http://www.dotmar.com.au/products/uniboard/uniboard_main.htm
This stuff is ideal to use, as it is stronger than Plywood also much lighter (about a quarter of the weight)and easier to cut. Does not get water logged and swell. Doesnt go mouldy and it easy to clean. The price is a little more expensive but it is really good stuff. Comes in sheet form and has a really nice finish(Black to match your carpets). The 20mm ultra stiff would be ideal for the bedbase and the 10mm eco for everything else. Worth a look.

bobdaboarder
NSW, 185 posts
19 Jan 2009 9:48PM
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Smedg said...

@ rob 1977. That's exactly how I want mine. No wasted space. perfect. Does the ply sag much in the middle when you lay on it? Do you still have enough room to sit up in bed (assumming you are on the top bunk )


hey smedg. i had angle iron screwed to the sides. you coud prob use timber as well. i had 6 timber slates going across screwed to the top of the angle iron then ply screwed to that. was very strong.
i had mine pretty high to fit lots of gear in underneath and you could also sleep someone underneath as well. if you wanted to you could make it lower for more head room.

Smedg
NSW, 836 posts
19 Jan 2009 10:47PM
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Spent today filling holes in the floor with sicaflex (like silicon). Its an ex Telstra van, so under the carpeted ply floor was a floor with heaps of holes from all the Telstra shelving. Hoping to get some time to spend thinking about or making the bed tomorrow or the next day. Can't wait. Here are some before pics. Its a '99 2.4L petrol Express. (the biggest one I think)




lostinlondon
VIC, 1159 posts
19 Jan 2009 11:45PM
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I would get a "Fiamma" style roof vent installed with fly wire in it. They wind up and down, and give you some air, without letting Billy Blowfly and the Mozzies perform a gig in your van. When it's warm, you are going to need it!
Definitely get reflective sun shades for when you go out on the turps and want to lie in a bit next day without cooking off.

Leave the carpet in as it is nice on your feet when the weather gets a bit chillier.

Maybe have a slide out system at the back with some folding support legs on it to have a galley set up, so you can BBQ on.

Have a look at any VW van that has a proper conversion in it. You will get loads of ideas on how to be clever with your space. I had an 82 VW Kamper in Europe and it had a cupboard for every purpose.

If you have the cash, get one of those retracting shade awnings that clamp onto the gutter rail.

Definitely consider getting a leisure battery as you don't want to leave a cabin light on and find you have drained the main battery out in the middle of whoop whoop.

The greatest thing about having a van is the freedom that comes with it, design it well so you can bring friends along. Make it as neat as you can so the ladies won't assume straight away its your shagging wagon (even if it is)

Half the fun is fitting new things to it that make your life easier. I reckon the PVC pipe shower system would be a great idea, even if it is just to get the sand and salt off yourself at the end of a hot day.

Hope you get some ideas from this.

Smedg
NSW, 836 posts
20 Jan 2009 1:28AM
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rob1977 said...

Smedg said...

@ rob 1977. That's exactly how I want mine. No wasted space. perfect. Does the ply sag much in the middle when you lay on it? Do you still have enough room to sit up in bed (assumming you are on the top bunk )


hey smedg. i had angle iron screwed to the sides. you coud prob use timber as well. i had 6 timber slates going across screwed to the top of the angle iron then ply screwed to that. was very strong.
i had mine pretty high to fit lots of gear in underneath and you could also sleep someone underneath as well. if you wanted to you could make it lower for more head room.


Rob1977.. Your posts are messing with my head. I was planning on not joining anything to the sides but yours looks exactly how I want mine.. Can you tell me what size angle iron and screws you used on the sides? I've got zero experience with body work. Do you drill pilot holes and use self tappers with the rubber washers on them? Really appreciate all your help. I totally can't decide at the moment between your method and something like Tobes suggests.


@ Tobes.. You said,

"for example screwing a few 70 x 35 pine battens on flat to the underside of 12mm plywood."

This would decrease the sag even if the pine battens themselves don't sit on any supports, wouldn't it? Or did you mean having them sit on something at the sides of the van?

Thanks again for such great help!!

bobdaboarder
NSW, 185 posts
20 Jan 2009 7:24AM
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hey smedg, i have another idea which i will be doing in my vw caddy soon. using 12 or 16 mm ply. cut it to the the length of your bed by the height you want. cut out the sections which go over the wheel arches.

using 75 x 35 or similar size pine timber, screw a piece the length of the bed flush with the topside of the ply. place these on the sides where you want your bed to sit. then cut your crossbeams to the width of the van and screw to the top of the timber on the sides.amount of crossbeams depends on how wuch weight you want to support. i think i had six.then all you need to do is cut your ply to size for the top and thats it.

shouldnt cost more than $100 or $150 max. ply is the most expensive part.



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"Putting a bed over kite gear in a van" started by Smedg