I'm looking to replace my flysurfer infinite bars with others that don't have the self unwinding system, a cleat depower system is a must and all the line need to be the same length, I realise that most bars already have the lines the same length
any tips help greatly appreciated
What's the problem with it? Ohh, the unwinding is chewing up the safety line? It's just flying line, you can splice in a new section or just replace the whole lot real easy...
Switch bar would be a place to start.
Problem is, almost nothing for LEIs is going to be wider than 55cm. Cabrinha 1X Trimlite bars go up to 60cm but I don't know how much Cabrinha would bother you...?
Also would be pretty easy to replace the straps with a cleat, either a "racing" one (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Clamcleat-Aero-Cleat-CL826-72-base-Black-Nylon-Junior-cleat/121889084839?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649) or a blocky one like Switch (switchkites.com/regulator.html)
Benefit of the Switch one is you can adjust for depower throw; and the cleat, the sliding stopper and the C4 trim bracket costs less than US$30.
PS how much do you want for your Infinity bars? 
PPS my 2017 Cab bar has no unspinning and needs to be manually unwound. It bugs the hell out of me and I always wish I'd bothered putting up a Flysurfer instead
I use Ozone bars for my FlySurfers, that works well, with the added benefit longer lasting lines. You'll possibly need https://www.fixmykite.com.au/kook-proof-pigtail-set.html depending on the bar. Just be aware that the lines might catch on the additional knots, especially when you use them for trim. Usually getting some slack in the lines or shaking the kite works.
Does the self unwinding system work or is it a case that it works sometimes only. If that's the case does that mean the bar unwinding system binds on main lines when it doesn't unwind correctly? From looking at it it looks super easy to replace main line. 5mm dyneema costs about $5 a meter from a boating supply place or even your local kite shop and one meter or just over should be enough for the job.
In this case no splicing is required at all. Simply double the dyneema in half and tie an overhand knot at the appropriate spot at the depower cleat end......use the old mainline as a guide. Of course you'll need to thread it through the bar and the chicken loop assembly top rotor before tying off.
Once you've calibrated the lines just trim the excess line on the cleat side of the knot. If you leave a little extra you can move the knot to calibrate the lines later if required. The excess will get hidden under the neoprene sock.
If you learn how to do you can have a new main line in half an hour for $5.00 as often and anytime you want one.
Infinity 2 and 3 work well, 1 worked fine if you added a thrust bearing.
But they can be rough on the safety line - that broken line on the left.
Some violin bow wax is supposed to be helpful in alleviating that issue...
So that's the Aero Cleat and an Antal ring...and some splicing.But you're still stuck with the unspinning bits :D
