I have Nobile NBL 2013 138x40,5 board, perfect for light wind. I have tried a lot of other boards and I am still happy with this. If I would sell it 150 dollars to my pocket would be a huge success. So, why not to keep it? Well, I want wake bindings to it.
Short google search and one guy said that inserts in normal kite boards wont last long with boots, and like 90% of board damage comes from people putting wake bindings to kite board with no proper inserts for boots. Then one guy commented that you could glue wake bindings to kite board with low mod silicone. Basically, this would take off some load from the inserts, and silicone is even easy to take out some day if you want to separate boots and board.
Does anybody have any experience on this topic, has anybody tried this?
Liquidforce Envy 12m2 and this Nobile with straps and guys with 14m2 + boots cannot do even proper raley anymore and im still practicing something to blind. One of them is even selling his wake(kite)board as he says cannot ride in enough low wind and needs to change to something else. In my level (no kite loops/high unhooked tricks) I dont see the point to invest 800e to some super stiff and durable kite board, Especially if I then miss 30% of the wind which could be used for good practice.
Yes could work, roughen up both surfaces real good, there are some silicone glues used in automotive service that could do the job, or a 2 component polyurethane rubber would be best, both not so cheap though
yeah give some cheap silicone a try give it a decent cureing time. if that fails... well you said its only a $150 board right? just araldite the sucker.... got me thinking actually...
Ensure your settings/ stance are what you prefer
Clean board with alcohol wipes, don't sand back
Apply any clear silicone that's non acidic
Silicone has a high suction rate,
It's not it's adhesion,
If your bindings pull out inserts using the info I've given you , I'll buy you a carton
Further to add,
Nobile use snowboard tech in their construction
Of their boards, they actually make snowboards for their own market as well as others
3M VHB (very high bond) double sided rape. The stuff defies belief when bonding materials together, you will not get the bindings off if used and cleaned properly.
Are you guys mad?
Gluing will fail.
If its an old board like you state drill right through the board. And bolt it up using countersunk bolts on the bottom of the board.
Drill oversize. Resin the hole up. Then redrill it the sized you need. This will seal up the core.
Bolt up and ride.
You don't need to spend "800e" (I don't know what that means, euros?) on a special super-stiff board, you can pick up last year's models pretty cheap. Here in the US there are some brand new LF Echos going for about 200 USD. If you are concerned about getting upwind, I wouldn't buy a wakestyle specific board anyway - we have a similar situation at my local, most of the time we ride underpowered so high-rocker boards are kind of pointless. There are compromise boards that are somewhere in between though, like LF Element, Legacy, Slingshot has one or two that work well with boots, I don't remember the names. Maybe the vision.
Anyway, point is you don't have to spend crazy amounts of money, a board that's a year or two old will work fine and should be relatively inexpensive.
Gluing the bindings to the board seems like a pretty kooky idea, I guess it might work though with some kind of marine adhesive. I wouldn't trust it to hold for more than a couple hard falls, but it will take some pressure off the inserts I guess.
Select to expand quotePlummet said...
Are you guys mad?
Gluing will fail.
If its an old board like you state drill right through the board. And bolt it up using countersunk bolts on the bottom of the board.
Drill oversize. Resin the hole up. Then redrill it the sized you need. This will seal up the core.
Bolt up and ride.
Glue will fail
Silicone won't
It's highly unlikely you'll pull an insert on a nobile board due to how there put in, same as snowboards
The silicone will relieve the pressure on the inserts though, you'll have very little force on the inserts
Silicones suction / holding capacity is huge
I had to remove a cabin from a yacht
The flange of the cabin was approx 3 in wide onto the deck of the boat ( fiberglass gelcoat)
We had an idea to use a crane to slightly lift the cabin so we could get a recipo blade between the flange and deck to cut away silicone joint
We lifted the yacht just above the waterline
3 ton on a bead of silicone ain't bad
Select to expand quotecauncy said..Plummet said...
Are you guys mad?
Gluing will fail.
If its an old board like you state drill right through the board. And bolt it up using countersunk bolts on the bottom of the board.
Drill oversize. Resin the hole up. Then redrill it the sized you need. This will seal up the core.
Bolt up and ride.
Glue will fail
Silicone won't
It's highly unlikely you'll pull an insert on a nobile board due to how there put in, same as snowboards
The silicone will relieve the pressure on the inserts though, you'll have very little force on the inserts
Silicones suction / holding capacity is huge
I had to remove a cabin from a yacht
The flange of the cabin was approx 3 in wide onto the deck of the boat ( fiberglass gelcoat)
We had an idea to use a crane to slightly lift the cabin so we could get a recipo blade between the flange and deck to cut away silicone joint
We lifted the yacht just above the waterline
3 ton on a bead of silicone ain't bad
when building large pits (think walk in sewers from ghost busters stuff with ladders and ****) basicly the walk inable space needs no concrete in it so we build a big wooden box. alot of the factory floors we sometimes do this on are concrete or steel (yep like a big ass frying pan) anyways
so these boxes float in the concrete unless you bolt them down or hold them down somehow. you would be amazed how well running a ring ov silicone around the edges of the box against the floor works. sure it stops the mud from seeping but it really does suck/hold the boxes down pretty well.
so yeah i believe cauncys boat experience with that. as we use frannas to lift these boxes out sometimes and altho all bolts are gone etc you can just kinda feel its due to that silicone and once that goes she pops up pretty easily
NOW
young mastic master
what you want to do when applying silicone is as mentioned before but ill give you a step by step
wipe EVERYTHING down with rubbing alcohol you want it all completely clean no dust and wait to dry.
attach bindings to correct ducking etc (jump off a table and whichever way your feet face when you land is your ducking (do it a few times))
get your silicone tube nip off the top apply the nozel cut it a little bit wider on an angle wack it in the silicone gun and squeeze several times till shes about to come out the nozzle
have a bucket or bowl of water next to you
now squeeze the trigger and rim all of your bindings around where its attached to the board (not directly under the boot just the outsides, boots should be bolted on allready)
now that its completely surrounded both boots wack a nail or some **** in the end the silicone nozzle
get your finger dip it in the bowl of water and rim it all around the silicone gently pushing it in.
keep reapplying water to your finger every so often.
let it all sit to cure dont pick it up by the boots or anything stupid just leave it be probably for 12 hours id say 24 why not.
when it comes time to takeing boots off for whatever reason just slide a stanley knife or razorblade inbetween the board and boot.
use the razorblade to clean silicone off board and boot
drink the bowl of silicone water
If your sticky tape or perkins paste comes undone in a crash, one leg will still be attached to the board and your leg will look like a mintie wrapper.
Select to expand quotekitcho207 said...
If your sticky tape or perkins paste comes undone in a crash, one leg will still be attached to the board and your leg will look like a mintie wrapper.
He has the boots sufficiently screwed onto the board as per normal.
He just heard about storys of boards with narrow/small/weak inserts RIPPING RIGHT OUT of the board.
So the silicone will just disperse that forceful tension from just 2 imbedded inserts to 2 imbedded inserts and the entire boot.
Im sure gluing would be enough with the screws, however, now that screws were mentioned:
The board has 100% wood core, however the bottom seems to be some 2-3mm thick plastic/composite/(steel?)
The thickness of the board from the middle is 11mm and the depth of an insert hole is 9mm. I think the hole goes through the whole wood core, and it is already therefore isolated. Here pictures of the hole and board:
<div>http://postimg.org/image/t1qok5z1z/
<div>postimg.org/image/andfvh5mf/
Actually, I would need to just drill under 2mm of the bottom plastic/composite material away, and put some screws through. Any concerns here? which type of bolt? E.g. mushroom vs countersunk? For countersunk, would I try to carve the plastic/bottom away to fit it, but on the other hand, this could expose some of the core more easily?
I would do as plummet said, if you wanted to do something a little different. You will rip the boots off in the first 10min with glue. Trust me, Iv pulled inserts on almost every board Iv ever owned, even a Tona pop.
But if I were you, just screw the boots on and ride it like a board should be riden! Pulling inserts just comes with boots!
I would recommend getting some countersunk self taping screws about 70mm long. What you want to do is screw them from the bottom of the board up through and into the binding. the pointy tips coming through the insert will give you some extra grip which is useful.
Seriously though, gluing will always be stronger than bolting regardless of what some people on here have said - they are not gluing stuff properly if they think a bolt head is stronger.
Obviously the downside is that your board will snap inhalf before the bindings coming off.
If you want to glue the bindings, I would lightly sand the entire underside with 200 grit and same on the top of the board where it will be glued, place a layer of 6K cross weave fiber glassbetween the boots and the board, and lastly vacuum bag the bindings to the board for 24 hrs. If you cannot vacuum bag then place as much weight as possible onto the bindings while the glue sets, like 100 kg each binding. This will get the glue performing closer to its rating. I use maxbond, which I think is around 9000 psi and 2000 PSi but the key is compression when the glue sets to get this performance.
