Was having an awesome time on a downwinder from Leighton's to Brighton yesterday when this happened approx. 20 ft in the air. The end result was not pretty with me ending up having an 1.5 hrs walk to the car. Cheers to the guy that stopped and offered a lift but was not going to get into his nice car all wet and sandy.
Could have put the chicken loop around the spreader bar, save a long walk. Would of slipped from side to side a bit, but workable.
Select to expand quoteSibboV1 said..
Could have put the chicken loop around the spreader bar, save a long walk. Would of slipped from side to side a bit, but workable.
I agree but not much help if the kite deflated on impact
Dakine spreader bar, eh... what a surprise 
I've lost count of how many threads like this I've seen.
mmmmmm spreader bar ? looks more like they should have called it a "seperation bar" 
Bugger about the walk, and how nice ot the guy to offer a lift, but if it was a hot chick offering the lift would you have jumped in ? 
PS, y 3 pics ?
Select to expand quoteKamikuza said..
Dakine spreader bar, eh... what a surprise I've lost count of how many threads like this I've seen.
wait sooo... this isnt as a result of poor storage/transport/putting heavey objects on it resting etc? your saying alot of dakine bars have been snapping with just regular use?!? thank god i didnt get my new harness yet
Select to expand quoteCraig66 said..
PS, y 3 pics ?
?????? I just spent the last 5 mins trying to spot the difference 
just email dakine with your photos, they ll send a new one quick as theyve got this down to a fine art after doing it for years, like i said before trust a dakine spreader like youd trust rolf harris babysitting your kids
Select to expand quoteGilly3 said..Craig66 said..
PS, y 3 pics ?
?????? I just spent the last 5 mins trying to spot the difference
Sorry about the three pics mate no difference what so ever which is not hard to work out, not sure why that occurred.
I was worried about mine breaking so I cut it off with a hack saw & replaced it with some rope. 
had this happen a couple of times, always have a spare, learn to fly the kite by holding the chicken loop with one hand and the other on the bar if it does happen, you could pre-empt this occurrence with some zip ties or rope so if it does go to **** 2ks of shore your covered, practise unhooking more
Welcome to the club.
www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Kitesurfing/General/Reminder-to-check-your-spreader-bar/#1371249
Select to expand quoteaustin said..
had this happen a couple of times, always have a spare, learn to fly the kite by holding the chicken loop with one hand and the other on the bar if it does happen, you could pre-empt this occurrence with some zip ties or rope so if it does go to **** 2ks of shore your covered, practise unhooking more
Or.........as an alternative....... Ditch the harness alltogether and buy one that wont put your life in danger...... just saying.
Looks like a really really poor design with only tiny weld spots
Select to expand quoteSibboV1 said..
Could have put the chicken loop around the spreader bar, save a long walk. Would of slipped from side to side a bit, but workable.
... ha, I've had to do this technique twice, second time I just kept kiting and got used to the sliding!
Select to expand quoteKamikuza said..
Dakine spreader bar, eh... what a surprise I've lost count of how many threads like this I've seen.
Would be useful to see a post from someone at Dakine on what's been done about this issue.
Clearly not a one-off. Uncomfortable, being at the mercy of someone's bad welding technique.
On inspection of the break, it looks pretty clear that the welding technique has somehow damaged the metal, causing it to fatigue. Surely, this is just poor technique, not faulty materials?
FYI, I had the same thing happen to a Cabrinha spreader bar about 6 years ago.
the weakest point on a fillet joint like that is always at the toe of the weld- which is where it broke.
Select to expand quoteRobbo2099 said..Kamikuza said..
Dakine spreader bar, eh... what a surprise I've lost count of how many threads like this I've seen.
Would be useful to see a post from someone at Dakine on what's been done about this issue.
Clearly not a one-off. Uncomfortable, being at the mercy of someone's bad welding technique.
On inspection of the break, it looks pretty clear that the welding technique has somehow damaged the metal, causing it to fatigue. Surely, this is just poor technique, not faulty materials?
FYI, I had the same thing happen to a Cabrinha spreader bar about 6 years ago.
That has been cracked for some time. You can see the corrosion staining. That is the old crack. the fresh failure point is the non tarnished end.
This could be intergranular corrosion. I wonder if they use 304L or316L when welding? I doubt it. When welding standard 316 take less than one minute for chromium carbide precipitates to form at the grain boundries. This causes a chromium depleation zones at the grain boundries. Causing a an inability for the protective passive chromium oxide layer build. This forms a small galvanic cell that starts to corrode and propagates a crack.
316L takes 10 mins for carbide precipitates to form when welding,...... . . . ..... No chance of carbide precipitates on a small weld like this!.
A couple of weeks ago a couple of km short of the end of a downwind run I broke the main strap holding one end of the spreader bar.
The kite crashed and I was in the shore break so I went to the beach and rigged up a temporary fix that allowed me to launch and head out to ride back the car. Unfortunately the temporary fix failed on the first wave I hit.
I ended up relaunching the kite and riding unhooked. If I needed to depower I could work the chicken loop with one hand and I had the remaining end of the spreader bar to take some of the load.
It was scary at first but it ended up fine and it was kind of fun in the end. I am a strictly hooked in rider but all that time spent practicing unhooked riding paid off in the end.
Select to expand quotePlummet said..Robbo2099 said..Kamikuza said..
Dakine spreader bar, eh... what a surprise I've lost count of how many threads like this I've seen.
Would be useful to see a post from someone at Dakine on what's been done about this issue.
Clearly not a one-off. Uncomfortable, being at the mercy of someone's bad welding technique.
On inspection of the break, it looks pretty clear that the welding technique has somehow damaged the metal, causing it to fatigue. Surely, this is just poor technique, not faulty materials?
FYI, I had the same thing happen to a Cabrinha spreader bar about 6 years ago.
That has been cracked for some time. You can see the corrosion staining. That is the old crack. the fresh failure point is the non tarnished end.
This could be intergranular corrosion. I wonder if they use 304L or316L when welding? I doubt it. When welding standard 316 take less than one minute for chromium carbide precipitates to form at the grain boundries. This causes a chromium depleation zones at the grain boundries. Causing a an inability for the protective passive chromium oxide layer build. This forms a small galvanic cell that starts to corrode and propagates a crack.
316L takes 10 mins for carbide precipitates to form when welding,...... . . . ..... No chance of carbide precipitates on a small weld like this!.
Yes, clearly the crack has been there a while from the evidence of the significant corrosion around the crack. In fact, I suspect it may have been cracked from the outset when it was new, and only the centre bit where it's not discoloured was holding it all together, given that this bar broke after less than a year's use. The Cabrinha bar that also broke (this one broke at the side near the belt insertion point) was also well less than 12 months old.
I'm way out of my depth understanding the welding terminology, but probably very helpful for welding people to understand how the process is going wrong.
Someone needs to get this info to Dakine if they aren't already aware of it.
Select to expand quoteKozzie said..Kamikuza said..
Dakine spreader bar, eh... what a surprise I've lost count of how many threads like this I've seen.
wait sooo... this isnt as a result of poor storage/transport/putting heavey objects on it resting etc? your saying alot of dakine bars have been snapping with just regular use?!? thank god i didnt get my new harness yet
I've got three here that have snapped right off (earlier gen like in your photo) and two with just one side broken (later gen)...
From a total of 4 Dakine harnesses.
Select to expand quotecauncy said..
just email dakine with your photos, they ll send a new one quick as theyve got this down to a fine art after doing it for years, like i said before trust a dakine spreader like youd trust rolf harris babysitting your kids
Quick took about 2 months for me.
Rolf the Aussie icon
Guilty until proven innocent eh?
I have three non dakine spreaders in the shed if you need one in less than two months
Select to expand quoteRobbo2099 said..Plummet said..Robbo2099 said..Kamikuza said..
Dakine spreader bar, eh... what a surprise I've lost count of how many threads like this I've seen.
Would be useful to see a post from someone at Dakine on what's been done about this issue.
Clearly not a one-off. Uncomfortable, being at the mercy of someone's bad welding technique.
On inspection of the break, it looks pretty clear that the welding technique has somehow damaged the metal, causing it to fatigue. Surely, this is just poor technique, not faulty materials?
FYI, I had the same thing happen to a Cabrinha spreader bar about 6 years ago.
That has been cracked for some time. You can see the corrosion staining. That is the old crack. the fresh failure point is the non tarnished end.
This could be intergranular corrosion. I wonder if they use 304L or316L when welding? I doubt it. When welding standard 316 take less than one minute for chromium carbide precipitates to form at the grain boundries. This causes a chromium depleation zones at the grain boundries. Causing a an inability for the protective passive chromium oxide layer build. This forms a small galvanic cell that starts to corrode and propagates a crack.
316L takes 10 mins for carbide precipitates to form when welding,...... . . . ..... No chance of carbide precipitates on a small weld like this!.
Yes, clearly the crack has been there a while from the evidence of the significant corrosion around the crack. In fact, I suspect it may have been cracked from the outset when it was new, and only the centre bit where it's not discoloured was holding it all together, given that this bar broke after less than a year's use. The Cabrinha bar that also broke (this one broke at the side near the belt insertion point) was also well less than 12 months old.
I'm way out of my depth understanding the welding terminology, but probably very helpful for welding people to understand how the process is going wrong.
Someone needs to get this info to Dakine if they aren't already aware of it.
Welding issues as above. Chloride(salt) stress corrosion cracking a probable reason in heat affected zone. You can see the pits on the weld. A bad sign. If you got any staining spots (rust colour) at all in this area no matter how small you will most likely have pitting beneath the surface and extensive.
This happens in chloride(salt) environment in temps over 50degC. It's can be like an ants nest beneath the surface until it fails from stress fracture or fatigue.
If you got this beware they break with little warning. You can't fix it easily, ditch the bar and buy a new one one with a different design, this one is prone to failures.
^ the first one that broke on me was only ever used in a lake, until a half-dozen sessions in the ocean at Thailand...
Problem is, Dakine is liking to have their own system of loops, buckles and straps. I've been looking around but there are few manufacturers who could replace the bar. Ion looked a possibility, but I saw one of their harnesses today and DAMN if that little curled up bit of metal looks like it's just waiting to give way. Same goes for the Mystic Clicker 3.0...
Got the mad mechanic to mod up an existing bar I have to do away with the buckles... I think he's up to building a whole new unit. It just won't be polished and shiny, which worries me.
Seriously, if a decent welder could do one that we'd be almost positive WOULDN'T break, I'd pay double price happily...
Select to expand quoteKamikuza said..
^ the first one that broke on me was only ever used in a lake, until a half-dozen sessions in the ocean at Thailand...
Problem is, Dakine is liking to have their own system of loops, buckles and straps. I've been looking around but there are few manufacturers who could replace the bar. Ion looked a possibility, but I saw one of their harnesses today and DAMN if that little curled up bit of metal looks like it's just waiting to give way. Same goes for the Mystic Clicker 3.0...
Got the mad mechanic to mod up an existing bar I have to do away with the buckles... I think he's up to building a whole new unit. It just won't be polished and shiny, which worries me.
Seriously, if a decent welder could do one that we'd be almost positive WOULDN'T break, I'd pay double price happily...
You need to TIG weld it but once stainless metal has been contaminated it is fairly useless to reweld. Welding bar may only break again later from similar issues. Buy new bar with different design.
Chlorides can be had from the sweat off your hand, they are everywhere and unavoidable.
Funny thing is just looked at my bar/hook and its suffering similar corrosion at the weld, Ahh I'll just wait till it breaks.
The mad mechanic seems to know his shiatzu, re. what to use, when.
This was what I got done, just to see if I like it - the double sided, no clips needed setup. Might get him to make a whole thing... won't be cheap though.
Note the twisted tip of the hook - just for a few minutes, the CL slipped off a bit and bent it all out of shape and opened the hook too :o WTF are they making these out of?!?
Should I polish the end I got made - and if so, how?
Due to such a small area that is effected by a lot of heat welding it again is only going to be a temp fix.
My suggestion is when you do weld it back on, fabricate a couple of little gussets to disperse the load away from the affected area.
also let it cool down as slow as possible, leave it in the oven if need be!
never ever seen that before.
