What do you think? Can it be repaired? Or at least use the second insert? the boot came out after hard landing... Anyone in WA who could fix it?
I'd give MAN OVER BOARD a call/visit - find them on FB.
Done a couple of repairs for me; quality work & reasonable prices.
Yeah that's an easy repair
1 sand away out damaged fibreglass by about 3-4" more, and feather the edges
2 remove broken bits of wood and taper edges.
3 make sure inserts are located correctly and fill gaps from removed wood with Q cell
4 sand flat and apply 3-4 layers of cloth over repair.
5 sand flat ,flow coat for best Finnish and paint
Select to expand quotejuicerider said..
Yeah that's an easy repair
1 sand away out damaged fibreglass by about 3-4" more, and feather the edges
2 remove broken bits of wood and taper edges.
3 make sure inserts are located correctly and fill gaps from removed wood with Q cell
4 sand flat and apply 3-4 layers of cloth over repair.
5 sand flat ,flow coat for best Finnish and paint
Might sounds easy, but it's not.
There is not way to secure the inserts with no 'meat' to 'bite' in.
It is just the matter of time when it will be pulled out after above fix. Sorry. The cloth works on tension, not compression.
To get the insert to properly 'bite', the only option is to drill the board from the bottom unfortunately.
At least 3 hrs work initially, plus sanding and finishing next day or so, 2hrs.
Good luck.
Select to expand quotedbabicwa said..juicerider said..
Yeah that's an easy repair
1 sand away out damaged fibreglass by about 3-4" more, and feather the edges
2 remove broken bits of wood and taper edges.
3 make sure inserts are located correctly and fill gaps from removed wood with Q cell
4 sand flat and apply 3-4 layers of cloth over repair.
5 sand flat ,flow coat for best Finnish and paint
Might sounds easy, but it's not.
There is not way to secure the inserts with no 'meat' to 'bite' in.
It is just the matter of time when it will be pulled out after above fix. Sorry. The cloth works on tension, not compression.
To get the insert to properly 'bite', the only option is to drill the board from the bottom unfortunately.
At least 3 hrs work initially, plus sanding and finishing next day or so, 2hrs.
Good luck.
Yeah it works fine, I've done it and got another years use out of a board before giving it away to someone else still going strong.
Without looking at the board it's hard to tell but I would not think drilling from the bottom would help because the wood you will be drilling into would be all broken up. The wood needs replacing, Of course you could route out a round hole in the board, make up a similar sized peice of Paulownia and replace it but that would be so much work, Instead just use Q cell and you don't touch the bottom .
It's also all about spreading the load and the edges of the wood need feathering out to stop stress points.
Q cell is easy as hard as the Paulownia wood it replaces and I would have thought better at resisting compression, but if you want extra strength I suppose you could always mix it up with some finely chopped glass as well.
The only step I missed out in my discripion is to cover two screws with release agent or Vaseline, and screw these into the inserts, this stops fibreglass resin getting into the thread and helps locate them.
Sure. It depends on the number of sessions tho:)
Obviously, drilling from the bottom would be with some offset to get it proper. That board is not designed for boots, if not mistaking.
On below pic the insert thread was long gone and the bolt just did not budge. At the end, did cut it.
The wood was 'tapered' for some glass to 'bite' in. 1.5-2hrs work, but much easier than the OP.
The problem is not how to do it tho, but how much moisture went in...You'll never be able to find that out without routing it.
Thanks for the info guys.
dbabicwa, any recommendations on who to contact to get this fixed in Perth? I do not have the tools and knowledge to do it myself.
Once repaired, I'm considering passing the board to my wife; she uses straps and she has a much less aggressive style than I do 
When repaired, a bead of silicone applied under foot pads or boot soles reduces the pull enormously on those inserts, as long as your not fiddling around with stance settings, on a high finish board it doesn't actually stick 100% its more suction, and industrial wipes will leave it as new if you decide to remove them, check your other inserts whilst at it, holding your board in a certain light and viewing a depression on the bottom or concave on the upper deck can be a sign
Select to expand quotelynxmo0 said..
Thanks for the info guys.
dbabicwa, any recommendations on who to contact to get this fixed in Perth? I do not have the tools and knowledge to do it myself.
Once repaired, I'm considering passing the board to my wife; she uses straps and she has a much less aggressive style than I do
Josh, is that you? :) If not, my work ph 6488 7432. I can do it and have SS inserts.
For everyone else this are the inserts I'm selling for the last 6-7 years (and built numerous boards, there is one atm in SOS shop in Freo): 
Heya!
The board has been united with the owner. Hope it will hold. There are a number of fiberglass layers going from 100g/m to 400g/m cloth with a white epoxy pigment as the last layer. The core was slightly tapered all around for cloth/epoxy to 'bite in'. Took me 3hrs +.
Here are some pics, and most importantly a short vid that demonstrate how board core is affected if not immediately dried after the inserts pulled out.
I've marked with a pencil the place where I think the manufacturing greatly affected the inserts!!! It is on exact place where the wood strips were joined in the factory :(
Wet wood:
