Does anyone know why pine studs have those fine grooves machined onto the surface?
It's been puzzling me for years.
My guess...
Allows glue in the gaps.
Allows compaction of the highs.
The stud would need to be slightly oversize.
If it was a smooth surface glue would get pushed out at the start.
A smooth stud would be harder to hammer in as the compaction would be needed by the hole it was getting hammered into.
It's rh timber
This is rougher header
It's a profile cutter that minimises splinters for handling and helps with holding coatings
As a carpenter it's great I was brought up using Rs, rough sawn most nights I'd be digging out deep splinters,
You find it used on the t2 or blue pine mainly
The cca pine for external applications is generally smoother due to its exposed uses
Don't like walking on wet t2 as roof battens compared to the old Rs
Generally in the finishing process/ machining it's also stress tested for its mgp 10/12 stamp
It's an arsole for marking out especially seat cuts for birds mouthing as your pencil keeps following the grooves, also double plates on framing as they lock into each other and won't sit flush due to offset grooves
Select to expand quotecauncy said..
It's rh timber
This is rougher header
It's a profile cutter that minimises splinters for handling and helps with holding coatings
As a carpenter it's great I was brought up using Rs, rough sawn most nights I'd be digging out deep splinters,
You find it used on the t2 or blue pine mainly
The cca pine for external applications is generally smoother due to its exposed uses
Don't like walking on wet t2 as roof battens compared to the old Rs
Generally in the finishing process/ machining it's also stress tested for its mgp 10/12 stamp
It's an arsole for marking out especially seat cuts for birds mouthing as your pencil keeps following the grooves, also double plates on framing as they lock into each other and won't sit flush due to offset grooves
That's exactly what bugs me about it. It's useful for projects though because it's so cheap. 
Select to expand quoterod_bunny said..
My guess...
Allows glue in the gaps.
Allows compaction of the highs.
The stud would need to be slightly oversize.
If it was a smooth surface glue would get pushed out at the start.
A smooth stud would be harder to hammer in as the compaction would be needed by the hole it was getting hammered into.
rod_bunny said..
My guess...
Allows glue in the gaps.
Allows compaction of the highs.
The stud would need to be slightly oversize.
If it was a smooth surface glue would get pushed out at the start.
A smooth stud would be harder to hammer in as the compaction would be needed by the hole it was getting hammered into.
Forget me...
I though you were talking about these...
Select to expand quoterod_bunny said..
Forget me...
I though you were talking about these...
try hammering 8mm clean sided dowels into an 8mm hole with a little glue, damn things keep backing out due to trapped air.
The groove sided dowels give more surface area for the glue to grab hold onto - plus let trapped air escape.
A colleague of mine is the technical manager for one of the big softwood companies in Australia, manages several mills, kilns and so on.
He said he couldn't give a clear answer on why pine is now rougher header (or fineline as they call it in Tasmania).
So, I suppose it is anybody's guess.
Clarence
I am a carpenter & builder.
I was lead to believe that rougher headed timbers started with with treated pine.
given the warranty offered for TP timbers, one of the issues they had was when used outside for decking and things like that- where say a joist sits on a bearer or beam- when it gets wet, it won't dry out- therefore accelerated decay or rot, even when treated, I have seen this when demolishing old rotten decks. The major areas of decay are where the timbers sit on other timbers and hold moisture.
i have pulled apart decks and it hasn't rained in months, and these joints are still wet!
therefore the rougher heading or grooving of the timbers allowed some airflow and the timber was able to dry out.
it was more of a problem with pine as it is a softwood which compressed under load, not such a problem with hardwoods
and yes one added advantage was adhesive bonding And paint adhesion.
just what I heard
cheers
Hey mate I asked this question some years ago over at Kellys wood yard, fairly certain he said it was a cost issue, something about using some sort of rollers rather than milling cutters, or maybe it was something to do with being rolled and tested for mgp rating. Cant really remember. They will mill dar for u.
Are u building board racks or working on that big new project of yours. 
The TP decking is a classic example, for years I didn't know WTF, was it smooth side up or grooved side up.
I laid it both ways depending on customer preference.
however soon came to realise that the grooves up soon fill up with detritus & crap, don't offer any more grip, and need to be cleaned out often or become as slippery as all hell particularly with overhanging trees.
smooth side up and groove side down to help air flow under the board over the top of the joist. Stops it going slimy and mouldy, and even reduces the smell!
Select to expand quoteSupersonic27 said...
The TP decking is a classic example, for years I didn't know WTF, was it smooth side up or grooved side up.
I laid it both ways depending on customer preference.
however soon came to realise that the grooves up soon fill up with detritus & crap, don't offer any more grip, and need to be cleaned out often or become as slippery as all hell particularly with overhanging trees.
smooth side up and groove side down to help air flow under the board over the top of the joist. Stops it going slimy and mouldy, and even reduces the smell!
It's always been groove down, as it'll round not cup, I see cupped decks constantly through fitting groove up and piss poor fixings giving little holding capacity, the grooves definitely aid air flow to dry the timber,
In the uk I've stapled Traditional dpc on tops of rafters prior to screwing decks down
Select to expand quotelungs said..
Hey mate I asked this question some years ago over at Kellys wood yard, fairly certain he said it was a cost issue, something about using some sort of rollers rather than milling cutters, or maybe it was something to do with being rolled and tested for mgp rating. Cant really remember. They will mill dar for u.
Are u building board racks or working on that big new project of yours.
I'd always assumed that it was the effect of being pulled through a machine to test for MGP. I'd assumed machine graded meant that every piece went through a system that checked deflection, so the rollers would have to have some bite into the timber.
