Old dad needs advice

Get a really big mal n go for it! Start in small waves move on from there! Dont get a sup.

Do try a sup . It's versatile for flat water and surf and you'll love it. I've surfed all kind of boards for many years and now I'm having more fun than ever on a sup .

Sounds like me when I first got back into surfing. Years surfing like mad on the esky lid (all lean and muscles), and then first comes love, then comes marriage, followed by the little tackers and the dreaded “daddy weight”.

I would recommend looking at the NSP 10’2 longboard, because its big, about half price and floats us daddies, and as a result you wont stress that you made a major investment while you flounder around in the white wash.

Did somebody say whitewash? Yup, me. Talking from experience. Because for all the late drops, back dooring pits, super sucky waves and high wave counts…….

You now need to accept those days (for now are long gone, GONE I tell ya). I found it hard at first because it was like starting all over again. First time back out in small super clean Autumn waves and I couldn’t even sit on the board, let alone paddle without falling off. Did I catch a wave that first time?









nope! . . .







So I gave up and pushed my little girl into the waves instead. Yes she showed me up, with all her onboard dance moves

So I spent the winter learning how to paddle where to position myself on a board, how to sit on a board and how to catch white water…..a again (and to accept that 2 – 3 waves caught prone, was a good session).

You have to accept going back to being a “gumby” in public and then move on, concentrating on fitness, balance and paddle strength. I found that after a good few sessions (1- 2 every week), I was able to catch a wave again and ride it (prone) all the way in.

From here it was just a matter of figuring out what stance felt most comfortable for poping up. I started with the chicken stance popup (google it, its there) and can now popup with comfort.

The best things I find about riding a Mal is that……
1) While I cant do what I used to do, crossing up and down the board, switch stance and kind of riding the nose (still a bit of “daddy weight to go) I s much fun.

2) On smaller days when fella’s are bunny hopping (no offence) their short boards all over the place to try and catch/ stay on a wave, I’m casually catching my wave count and enjoying the ride. I still haven’t gotten back out to some of my old haunts, but I’m enjoying discovering some new ones.

Give it time and enjoy each session.

cool thing is ,how stoked you get over the little things.
ENJOY

Ben logan that is one way to look at it.

Or you can realise that all that stoke you had of riding waves is ahead of you again.
And that you have a few advantages over your fellow surfers.
Most 44 year old surfers knees are starting to get pretty worn out popping up all the time. I am constantly being asked by older surfers 50-60 plus whose knees are gone to the bone. How they can get into sup.

There is also a group of regular guys at my local beach who are all over 55. Sure they are all a bit slower than the young hot shots but having less fun, I think not.

One of the locals has a son, 6 years old and swims out to push him into waves in holiday time, when its crowded and his son doesn't have school. He loves it and his son is always the only grommet in the lineup.

Just enjoy the new chapter in your life. Get a fat longboard and just focus on learning in steps that take longer.
As an educator it is so important for parents to teach their children not only options to control their mental state when they get older. Freaking anxiety is taking over the youth of today. But also to invest the time in the relationship with your child. Do kids want a hot shot surfer as a Dad or one that drives them down the beach and falls off as much as they do.

Once your child is old enough they will discover the red bull waterman series and expect you to be good at all water sport activities anyway.

Buy a soft longboard first
They are a few hundred bucks and when you are learning they are easy to paddle catch waves on when you fall or it hits you or you fall it hits you and cleans up someone else, it gets shrugged off and you keep surfing, if you do that with a 8-9 foot glass board it will be not so fun.
Get out there learn, be patient just go for a paddle learn to stand invest some time and you will get there, you will know when to then buy a "good board" judged on how many bruises and less pain your in from paddling and being hit by your board.
This has been a public service announcement