Pool has quite a tinge of green to it that I just can't budge. Test kit shows 10ppm of chlorine, and 300ppm of stabiliser, and pH is mid 7's.
Typical chlorine lock scenario....except....I haven't added stabiliser or stabilised chlorine for years (pool is shaded most the day, so don't really need it) and I've done quite a few filter backflush pump outs with the heavy rain we've had recently.
How is this possible?
most local hardware shops do tthe free test then sell u what u need, but from my younger kid days i think it was a small amount of hydrachloric acid to remove the algae from water , no swimming for one hour filter on!!! please check said advise been awhile!!!
Been having the same problem all season. Filter was clagged so replaced the beads then hit it with cloud out and acid and finally its clean.
Hate that bloody pool but Mrs won't let me fill it in 
Select to expand quotebazell said..
Been having the same problem all season. Filter was clagged so replaced the beads then hit it with cloud out and acid and finally its clean.
Hate that bloody pool but Mrs won't let me fill it in
They make a great Koi pond. Technically it's not being filled in...
Select to expand quoteMDSXR6T said..
How are your phosphate levels?
Probably through the roof as I have a dozen 20m gum trees all around the pool.
But what I really want to know is how I have isocyanuric acid levels 20 times the recommended level, WHEN I'VE NEVER PUT ANY IN THE POOL!!!???
What chlorine are you using? Liquid, granular or tablets?
Are you sure the test is accurate or your not confusing the CYA test with water hardness? The tablets used in home / tube style tests can be somewhat inaccurate.
Your pool is an ecosystem. Over time the bacteria and Algae in the pool can develop a resistance to 'normal' levels of Chlorine. Evolution is happening in your backyard and its time for a super chlorination.
The short term higher levels of chlorine kills everything in the pool. Don't swim in the pool for a few days or until the Chlorine level returns to a normal level.
I had the same issue. Solved it by salt saturating it, heaps of filter and a good 5 minute backwash to clean the filter, followed by 2 litres of HydroChloric acid.
Done
The chlorine bomb has been dropped. We'll see what remains in the morning. Got 4 gallons of brickies acid in the garage to deal with the aftermath.
If the stabiliser level is correct (most off the shelf test kits won't test for stabilizer, its not alkalinity or hardness by any chance) then its way too high, 100 max but works best between 25 to 50. the higher the stabiliser the more free chlorine you need. Take a sample to a pool shop, but be wary when they try to sell u stuff, make up a story that you have most of it and need to check the shed etc. etc. then source it elsewhere cheaper.
You need to distinguish between free chlorine and total chlorine as free chlorine does the killing/oxidizing. Get Alkalinity correct then Ph then Liquid chlorine (its cheapest) run filter continuously until it clears up. You really do need to get a full test done to find out what's going on. Could be copper from algaecide, crappy filter or heaps of other reasons. This link is pretty good.
www.troublefreepool.com/blog/
