Hey guys
Just wondering if someone can tell me what the average time would be to have a 24ft yacht Antifouled ? Eg 2-3 day from pulled to dropped ?
Regards
haul it out and blast it in the arvo, go home, come back in the morning and paint it. can put in water two hours after painted. less than 24 hours
Im not doing the job ... The local fella is and i was quoted 1200-1300 for 2 coats / pressure wash / lift and drop
Levy inc
6 hours is a common re-launch time for modern antifouling ....try the sailing forum on Seabreeze for more advise.
You have to buff or sand after pressure wash lots of places dodge this part which is unfortunateley the most important part of the whole process.
I use international paint micron or something like that it is a smoother finish so stays cleaner longer and less growth sticks on it.
The hull will also plane better so less fuel.
1200 bucks is pretty reasonable providing it is sanded.
While the boat is on the slip pull of your intake covers and clean the strainer box as well. Paint under the covers and put them back on.
Change your impellor you will thank yourself.
Check your engine anodes and change these , if you dont know what these are than you need to find them quick smart.
Gland packing if its a shaft boat make sure you set the drip rate.
External anodes and prop shaft anode.
Change your filters and oil
Air filters
Check batteries
Steerimg as well and hydraulic lines while its out go full lock and measure have a look at the rudder.
If you have hydraulic trim tabs check these as well make sure they both work through full range this is your chance.
Take two pairs of thongs one for the ladder to the boat and one for the boat.(you will figure it out)
Clean out your engine sump i mean with rags and detergent and wipe it immaculate this will help when you are looking for the seal leak somewhere in six months.
Man boats are sooo fun I love just spending all weekend fighting corrosion .
You have to buff or sand after pressure wash lots of places dodge this part which is unfortunateley the most important part of the whole process.
I use international paint micron or something like that it is a smoother finish so stays cleaner longer and less growth sticks on it.
The hull will also plane better so less fuel.
1200 bucks is pretty reasonable providing it is sanded.
While the boat is on the slip pull of your intake covers and clean the strainer box as well. Paint under the covers and put them back on.
Change your impellor you will thank yourself.
Check your engine anodes and change these , if you dont know what these are than you need to find them quick smart.
Gland packing if its a shaft boat make sure you set the drip rate.
External anodes and prop shaft anode.
Change your filters and oil
Air filters
Check batteries
Steerimg as well and hydraulic lines while its out go full lock and measure have a look at the rudder.
If you have hydraulic trim tabs check these as well make sure they both work through full range this is your chance.
Take two pairs of thongs one for the ladder to the boat and one for the boat.(you will figure it out)
Clean out your engine sump i mean with rags and detergent and wipe it immaculate this will help when you are looking for the seal leak somewhere in six months.
Man boats are sooo fun I love just spending all weekend fighting corrosion .
Sheesh you don't need to do all that while in the slip. And have to disagree with sanding/buffing antifouling unless there is a degree of build up which is causing patches to become flakey. 3000psi Gerni and antifouled once dry.
You have to buff or sand after pressure wash lots of places dodge this part which is unfortunateley the most important part of the whole process.
I use international paint micron or something like that it is a smoother finish so stays cleaner longer and less growth sticks on it.
The hull will also plane better so less fuel.
1200 bucks is pretty reasonable providing it is sanded.
While the boat is on the slip pull of your intake covers and clean the strainer box as well. Paint under the covers and put them back on.
Change your impellor you will thank yourself.
Check your engine anodes and change these , if you dont know what these are than you need to find them quick smart.
Gland packing if its a shaft boat make sure you set the drip rate.
External anodes and prop shaft anode.
Change your filters and oil
Air filters
Check batteries
Steerimg as well and hydraulic lines while its out go full lock and measure have a look at the rudder.
If you have hydraulic trim tabs check these as well make sure they both work through full range this is your chance.
Take two pairs of thongs one for the ladder to the boat and one for the boat.(you will figure it out)
Clean out your engine sump i mean with rags and detergent and wipe it immaculate this will help when you are looking for the seal leak somewhere in six months.
Man boats are sooo fun I love just spending all weekend fighting corrosion .
Sheesh you don't need to do all that while in the slip. And have to disagree with sanding/buffing antifouling unless there is a degree of build up which is causing patches to become flakey. 3000psi Gerni and antifouled once dry.
You are right you don't have to sand or buff the old anti foul.......
no one is making you, it just means you will be doing it all again in 6-9 months instead of 12-18.........
whilst you dont don't have to do all that work in the slip it needs to be done.
smart arse question ....... how many times have you had to be towed in
You have to buff or sand after pressure wash lots of places dodge this part which is unfortunateley the most important part of the whole process.
I use international paint micron or something like that it is a smoother finish so stays cleaner longer and less growth sticks on it.
The hull will also plane better so less fuel.
1200 bucks is pretty reasonable providing it is sanded.
While the boat is on the slip pull of your intake covers and clean the strainer box as well. Paint under the covers and put them back on.
Change your impellor you will thank yourself.
Check your engine anodes and change these , if you dont know what these are than you need to find them quick smart.
Gland packing if its a shaft boat make sure you set the drip rate.
External anodes and prop shaft anode.
Change your filters and oil
Air filters
Check batteries
Steerimg as well and hydraulic lines while its out go full lock and measure have a look at the rudder.
If you have hydraulic trim tabs check these as well make sure they both work through full range this is your chance.
Take two pairs of thongs one for the ladder to the boat and one for the boat.(you will figure it out)
Clean out your engine sump i mean with rags and detergent and wipe it immaculate this will help when you are looking for the seal leak somewhere in six months.
Man boats are sooo fun I love just spending all weekend fighting corrosion .
Sheesh you don't need to do all that while in the slip. And have to disagree with sanding/buffing antifouling unless there is a degree of build up which is causing patches to become flakey. 3000psi Gerni and antifouled once dry.
You are right you don't have to sand or buff the old anti foul.......
no one is making you, it just means you will be doing it all again in 6-9 months instead of 12-18.........
whilst you dont don't have to do all that work in the slip it needs to be done.
smart arse question ....... how many times have you had to be towed in
Starter motor failed. Towed myself in with the tender.
Air in fuel between Cairns and Port Douglas . Sailed back to Cairns and towed myself in with the tender.
so perhaps twice if towing yourself in counts? ??
I good list of prevantitive maintance you have listed but as I stated most can be done in the water. Apart from the underwater bits.
Have you got your boat sorted. Mine is in Cairns just now for repairs.
Im thinking of painting whilst it's out of the water. Looking for a good paint to roll and tip with that gives a gloss finish.
I normally work on fibreglass boats, repairs and anti fouling. I could give you a good price.