I have been thinking about having a go at 3D printing for a long time. Searches on Google gave me some ideas, but much of it is either too much information, or not enough. So I am turning to the enlightened ones here to help, please. Here are a list of questions.
(1). Can a 3D printer talk to an "AutoCAD easily?
(2). What do you need to start ?
(3). Any particular brand you favoured?
(4). How much?
(5). Consumables?
(6). Is plastic the only material for a low to medium range printer ?
Thank you very much.
Hey don't have much to really help but there are a couple libraries in Perth you can get things 3d printed we did I some bits and pieces for work their or at a uni ( sorry wasn't my project) but there are heaps of different products that can be printed most of them are a plastic or poly base but now there are some which have metal particles within or a cement type product. A mate bought one off eBay for around 600 bucks and is just starting to do some board find on it but is restricted height wise, from info during a chat he was saying the software is just as critical as the unit ideally if it can read in different formats it is easier to use and more enjoyable.
There is a website called 3d fins or something and apparently these guys are masters at it.
let us know how you go
Select to expand quoteJupiter said..
I have been thinking about having a go at 3D printing for a long time. Searches on Google gave me some ideas, but much of it is either too much information, or not enough. So I am turning to the enlightened ones here to help, please. Here are a list of questions.
(1). Can a 3D printer talk to an "AutoCAD easily?
(2). What do you need to start ?
(3). Any particular brand you favoured?
(4). How much?
(5). Consumables?
(6). Is plastic the only material for a low to medium range printer ?
Thank you very much.
(1). Can a 3D printer talk to an "AutoCAD easily?
AutoCAD will output through the printing command and create an STL file that is then used by a slicing programme to create the G code for the printer.
(2). What do you need to start ?
3D printer with slicing programme which come with the machine or can be down loaded for free and some filament. Plenty of free parts can be down loaded to print things.
(3). Any particular brand you favoured?
I have an old Flashforge Creator Pro a few years old that's made from plywood and as basic as it is it works well so I do like the Flashforge machines but it does need a hands on approach to print well. If you want a unpack and print unit you may need to look for a unit that has a self levelling platform as this is a process that needs to be done manually on basic machines that can be a bit of a nuisance if not good with your hands. Try and get a machine that does not need specific filament spools so you are free to shop around a buy what you want.
(4). How much?
I would not pay more than $600 - $800 for your first machine and keep it simple using single head with non heated bed. It will do only PLA filament and not ABS but I print mainly in PLA now as its just easier to use and does most things I want.
(5). Consumables?
Some machines come with printing filament but you will need at least a 1kg spool to start of with and depending on the machine I would start with PLA as its easier to use. To make the build stick to the platform you may need to buy a stick on tac tape or 3M blue paint masking tape in50mm wide spools works well for PLA and if using ABS you may need Kapton tap.
(6). Is plastic the only material for a low to medium range printer ?
Yes in ABS or PLA depending on the machine but you can use some flexible filaments or filaments that devolve.
I use this site for a lot of stuff and its cheap if order from the Australian site. Kogan also have a good machine available.
there must be a cheap one in Sydney comming up after the dopey nong tried selling his 3D guns on ebay derr
Select to expand quoteThank you very much, Razzonator and Hardcarve1. Your contributions are most appreciated.
Hardcarve1 has provided very comprehensive answers which gave me hope that I can actually have a go at this. I also did some research yesterday on 3D printers. What I discovered was that most printers would not be able to make objects larger than 150mmX150mmX150mm. I suppose that is fine for most. However, I found out that there is a machine called "Rostock Max" can do larger objects at 224mmX224mmX375mm. It is unique in the that way it operates. It uses a "Delta Style Robot System" instead of the conventional Cartesian Style. It is actually quite cheap at U$799 from Amazon.
It is not a "plug and play", and required 30 hours of assembling and tinkering. It is aimed at the intermediates and professionals. So it is not a toy for less technically inclined folks. According to the write-up, it losses out on precision, ease of use, and is noisy, besdies being bulky ! I am quite keen on this as it is within my price range, and I am reasonably technical, and it has less constraints on size.
By the way, Hardcarve1, your last sentence mentioned about "site". Do you mean "Kogan" ?
I like this machine as it uses Cura as a slicing programme which is fast and easy to use.
hobbyking.com/en_us/maylan-m150-i3-au-plug.html
I also get my filament from Hobbyking as well and while its not the best stuff it is cheap.
Select to expand quoteHardcarve1 said..
I like this machine as it uses Cura as a slicing programme which is fast and easy to use.
I am glad that you are able to shed much light on this subject, Hardcarve1. Can you please clarify...
...whether you like the "Rostock Max" I mentioned, or the "Flashforge Creator Pro" ? I am aware that the "Rostock Max" is still a machine in evolution stage, as is the 3D printer technology.
Select to expand quoteJupiter said..Hardcarve1 said..
I like this machine as it uses Cura as a slicing programme which is fast and easy to use.
I am glad that you are able to shed much light on this subject, Hardcarve1. Can you please clarify...
...whether you like the "Rostock Max" I mentioned, or the "Flashforge Creator Pro" ? I am aware that the "Rostock Max" is still a machine in evolution stage, as is the 3D printer technology.
Just a quick look at the Rostock Max V3 looks like a good delta machine and has good specifications. Has good 280 deg C nozzle temperatures so can do a range of materials although I have read it my struggle with Flexible filaments. I think it comes down to a matter of what you want, do you want to build a 3D printer or do you want to 3D print. If your good with building precision things like RC helicopters and like to do a little bit of soldering and enjoy the challenge of problem solving this would be a great first kit. If you just want to concentrate on the printing more and learning how to design in CAD and create in 3D printing I would just buy a ready made machine. From my own experience a basic machine can produce amazing quality with a little bit of tweaking.
From my point of view 3D printing is in creating a model concept and then working out how to best build it on the 3D printer. You will spend a lot of time just working out the best way to lay an objet to get the best result. Then you will need to calibrate your model design with the finished printed part so what is made in CAD is to real life when printed out. But most of all you will spend hours understanding the way best ways of getting a quality print job that is consistent and sticks to the build platform.
Now after a few years I find my old plywood printer is just fine for all the various jobs I need to print and all the bugs have been worked out and the time from idea to quality printed part is just hours rather than days.
Select to expand quoteHardcarve1 said..
I think it comes down to a matter of what you want, do you want to build a 3D printer or do you want to 3D print.
That I believe is a fair comment. I am aware that the Rostock Max is a product that required assembly. It is actually not that cheap to buy a fully assembled unit. It comes in at $3,000. There are a couple of used units at around $1,300 to $2,000. I suspect the sellers got a bit disappointed with the assembling, and decided to sell them after only a few goes.
Then there are some cheaper ones from China/HongKong/Taiwan selling at between $450 - $650. The more expensive one can even handle 3 reels of different colours !
For me, price is not such a big hurdle. I want a machine that is dependable, and can last a few years without the need to upgrade. So I am basically bludging on you guys for some hands-on experience. Your inputs are most appreciated.
What are you trying to make is the decider on what you need to get.
i.e.. no use buying a jaguar if your local streets are 50kms
or buying a windsurfer boat if you want to break the speed record, ride waves or jump high without a crash landing
Select to expand quotelotofwind said..
What are you trying to make is the decider on what you need to get.
i.e.. no use buying a jaguar if your local streets are 50kms
or buying a windsurfer boat if you want to break the speed record, ride waves or jump high without a crash landing
Do you have anything to say about 3D printers?
Curious as hell aren't ya? If you can't stop saying "windsurf" in every thread here, FFS just try it already.
Definitely get a heated bed!
Self levelingis a nice to have.
Printers: Prusa i3 mk2, is pretty popular/well regarded. There are chinese knock offs of mk1.
Material: I print in95% ABS, 5% TPU... when I first built my printer I tried PLA. There's a whole bunch of other filament types.
Software: FreeCad,Simply3D.Simply3D is by far the best slicer out there. 2nd would be Cura (for me).
When looking for a printer get the MOST stable one you can find, bcos they move when printing fast. NMEA motors + good quality hotend (E3D V6 Full).
The controllers and Arduino boards are all the same and may burn if you move the motors (I know from experience).
I would buy an UP Mini 2. It uses ABS and is not locked in to one brand. I use it with the students I teach and we run multiple machines at the same time. It will print 120 x 120 x 120mm max but I have multiple machines nad clip or join patrs together. At $899.00 they have a heated bed and are pretty reliable.
Thank you very much for your valuable inputs, Flyfisher and HappyG, Hardcarve1 and Razzanator.
I read up about 3D printers a hell of a lot since I posted here. There is one named "Lulzbot Taz 6". It is not cheap at $2,500 on Amazon. It has a good review. The Prusa i3 mk2, UP and FlashForge are also really models I can't go past.
Interestingly, that "UP" was the first machine I read up about 3D printers, and I downloaded the users manual. It is a very comprehensive one. Being a software professional, I believe a good users manual tells you much about the product itself.
I am still hunting and lurking around. Please keep the good information coming.
I've been printing for about 18 months.
Hopefully I can steer you away from some of the mistakes you might make...
* Avoid delta printers for your first printer (unlike me). They are fiendishly difficult to calibrate properly, and if you have a slight issue with it then it's not obvious exactly what's wrong. They are probably about 5 times more difficult to get printing properly than the other cartesian style printers.
* Avoid printed parts, especially for motor mounts. Motors get hot. Plastic warps. Motors also have side loads from a belt. Figure out the rest.(Note, printed motor mounts in PETG are OK, but all the kits will print them in PLA, which isn't).
* Get one with a heated bed, and hopefully get one you can enclose later on when you want to print larger plastic parts.
* Buy a sheet of PEI for the build plate. I can't stress this enough. Don't d!ck around with blue tape, hairspray, glue stick, ABS juice, and all manner of other concoctions. Just get a sheet of PEI and be done with it. It's good stuff.
A good entry level printer that gets excellent reviews is the Prusa Mk 2 (original). This has been cloned many times, because it's a good printer. You can't go much wrong with one.
Also check out the forums at reprap.org/forum/ if you get stuck. They are pretty active, and there are some smart cookies on there.
My workhorse was a cheap $500 delta kit from China. I've steadily replaced just about everything in it with better components, redesigned everything, and now it's giving beautiful prints and making a bit of money on the side.
I print 80% in ABS, 10% PLA for clients, and 10% in PETG/TPE/Metalfill.
Be prepared for 3D printing to take over your life if you're anything like me!
Select to expand quotenebbian said..
I've been printing for about 18 months.
Hopefully I can steer you away from some of the mistakes you might make...
My workhorse was a cheap $500 delta kit from China. I've steadily replaced just about everything in it with better components, redesigned everything, and now it's giving beautiful prints and making a bit of money on the side.
Be prepared for 3D printing to take over your life if you're anything like me!
Thank you very much for your very insightful input, nebbian. I like it when you break down the critical issues when choosing and using a 3D printer. Very useful indeed.
But first of all, I am very impressed by the fact that you are able to make money with your hobby/passion. I like that.
I have checked up on the "Rostock Max" which is a Delta printer. It's specifications looks impressive, and I was tempted by it. Then I saw what a "fully configured, assembled" unit costs, I realized there is a lot more than just the kit form. Hardcarve1 also mentioned that it is not a good idea to mess around with putting things together as a first project. That I believe is very true.
I am now checking up on the printer suggested by you. Still, I am keen on the "LutzBot Taz 6" because
(1). It is nearly fully assembled and almost "plug and play".
(2). It is reliable according to the reviews I read on the Internet.
(3). It is quite a popular machine, so that helps.
(4). Its quality of build is good, according to the reviewers.
(5). It has a large "build area" at "11X11X10" (inches) or 27.9X27.9X25.4 (mm).
(6). It has automated leveling and a heated bed.
Downsides ? Cost at $2,500 on Amazon, or $2,000 used. By the way, is it safe to buy a used machine on Amazon?
Select to expand quoteJupiter said..nebbian said..
I've been printing for about 18 months.
Hopefully I can steer you away from some of the mistakes you might make...
My workhorse was a cheap $500 delta kit from China. I've steadily replaced just about everything in it with better components, redesigned everything, and now it's giving beautiful prints and making a bit of money on the side.
Be prepared for 3D printing to take over your life if you're anything like me!
Thank you very much for your very insightful input, nebbian. I like it when you break down the critical issues when choosing and using a 3D printer. Very useful indeed.
But first of all, I am very impressed by the fact that you are able to make money with your hobby/passion. I like that.
I have checked up on the "Rostock Max" which is a Delta printer. It's specifications looks impressive, and I was tempted by it. Then I saw what a "fully configured, assembled" unit costs, I realized there is a lot more than just the kit form. Hardcarve1 also mentioned that it is not a good idea to mess around with putting things together as a first project. That I believe is very true.
I am now checking up on the printer suggested by you. Still, I am keen on the "LutzBot Taz 6" because
(1). It is nearly fully assembled and almost "plug and play".
(2). It is reliable according to the reviews I read on the Internet.
(3). It is quite a popular machine, so that helps.
(4). Its quality of build is good, according to the reviewers.
(5). It has a large "build area" at "11X11X10" (inches) or 27.9X27.9X25.4 (mm).
(6). It has automated leveling and a heated bed.
Downsides ? Cost at $2,500 on Amazon, or $2,000 used. By the way, is it safe to buy a used machine on Amazon?
For that money and the machine sounds good but it's single head, does not come with its own case to enclose the unit and no filament spool holders. I also see that the print head looks as if the main assemble has a few components made from 3D printed parts but I could be wrong.
I have seen machines in that price range have the ability to put lasers for engraving or milling head attachments which gives you another level of building performance.
When I bought my machine I didn't do it by mail but went to the shop and had them hand me the box and run through the setup. My thinking was I much rather spend some more money knowing I could take it back to them if it stoped working or I had problems. Funny thing is I have never needed that and the thing just keeps working day after day.
I will add also for me it's not about 3D printing anymore its about idea creation and the software to create the models is I think more important than the printer. Luckily I use Inventor at work and whatever you think up can be created.
Good luck with it and let us know how you go.
Select to expand quoteHardcarve1 said..
For that money and the machine sounds good but it's single head, does not come with its own case to enclose the unit and no filament spool holders. I also see that the print head looks as if the main assemble has a few components made from 3D printed parts but I could be wrong.
I have seen machines in that price range have the ability to put lasers for engraving or milling head attachments which gives you another level of building performance.
I will add also for me it's not about 3D printing anymore its about idea creation and the software to create the models is I think more important than the printer.
Thank you for the extra inputs, Hardcarve1. Much appreciated and helpful. Can you please clarify the following for me please...
(1). What do you mean by "3D printed part" ? And why is that an issue ?
(2). Is a "single head" a negative for the price it asked ? Would a dual head better ?
(3). What machines you have seen that is better at that price range?
I am a bit of a tinkerer and an engineer/software developer, so I like messing around with shapes, object, and create things. So a 3D printer may allow me to turn my imagination into reality.
Select to expand quoteJupiter said..Hardcarve1 said..
For that money and the machine sounds good but it's single head, does not come with its own case to enclose the unit and no filament spool holders. I also see that the print head looks as if the main assemble has a few components made from 3D printed parts but I could be wrong.
I have seen machines in that price range have the ability to put lasers for engraving or milling head attachments which gives you another level of building performance.
I will add also for me it's not about 3D printing anymore its about idea creation and the software to create the models is I think more important than the printer.
Thank you for the extra inputs, Hardcarve1. Much appreciated and helpful. Can you please clarify the following for me please...
(1). What do you mean by "3D printed part" ? And why is that an issue ?
(2). Is a "single head" a negative for the price it asked ? Would a dual head better ?
(3). What machines you have seen that is better at that price range?
I am a bit of a tinkerer and an engineer/software developer, so I like messing around with shapes, object, and create things. So a 3D printer may allow me to turn my imagination into reality.
A 3D printed part is one that was printed on a 3D printer. Ie, cheese grade plastic that will warp, and won't be as solid as a metal part. Trust me it's an issue.
A single head is what most people use, even the people with dual head printers. Dual heads are good for printing dissolvable support or multi colour prints, which on paper sounds good, but in practice they are a pain in the arse. If you don't get the two heads exactly lined up then one scratches the part while the other is printing, knocks it over, oozes all over it, and generally is more trouble than it's worth. The latest thing is to use one head, with a Y adapter upstream of the head, so that two extruders can feed the one head with filament. Again it's not without its problems, but it seems to be less error prone than two heads.
Also look for a machine that doesn't move the bed in the X or Y direction. Either a stationary bed or one that only moves in Z is what you want. Otherwise your print speed / acceleration is quite limited, and printing tall parts is problematic as they can topple over.
No one printer is right for everyone, so do your homework, look at reviews, and get the right one for you.
Select to expand quotenebbian said..
No one printer is right for everyone, so do your homework, look at reviews, and get the right one for you.
Thank you very much for the additional information, nebbian. Most useful. I did a lot of walking with my fingers and mouse. Thanks to everyone's guidance,
I have zoomed in on a Prusa i3 mk2 Original, mainly for the fact that it has very good reviews, and the construction. And guess what? It will take 7 weeks to order one ! Apparently it is so popular that it couldn't keep up with the supply.
I am tempted to look for other alternatives. But again, it may be worth the wait if it is indeed so good ?
I don't own a Prusa, but based on community feedback I gather the Prusa i3 mk2, is like buying a Carolla... nothing special but it just works.
Prusa designed a simple good quality machine, and spent $$$ where it's needed. The only thing I can think of to improve would be an enclosure if you're printing in a cooler than 20c room.
With my printer I've had to replace pretty much everything except the motors, bed and frame... this also meant learning Arduino, messing around with Marlin firmware, counting motor steps, ...
Thanks to all the valuable advice and inputs from here, I took the plunge and ordered a "Prusa i3 mk2 Original" last night ! It will be a long 7 weeks wait though.
Shipping is a killer. US$140 or nearly AU$200. Tyrany of distance...
Just get a 3D printer that prints more 3D printers !
boooom!!!!
overnight billionaire
Select to expand quoteMarsbars said..
Jupiter how did this work out? Are you happy with the chosen unit?
Sadly, it is still in the box ! I am busy doing up my house to sell it asap. My house was broken into and was totally cleaned up ! I am but one of the victims of the rise in crime rate in this once very safe and peaceful town.
