The Last Polynesian Kingdom
'Close race on flat Seas'
Maggie Joyce - Mariner Boating Holidays ©
Edwardo swooped into the dimly lit room with cape swirling, feet stomping and guitar strumming. We sat at trestle tables sipping sangria and eating the best Devils on Horseback I have tasted since the sixties - in fact the only ones I have tasted since the sixties! The gaspachio followed by Maria's excellent paella would suggest Spain - but no, we are in the Kingdom of Tonga.
As the night of singing, dancing and laughing wore on each of our yachting teams pushed forward a representative to perform on stage with Edwardo, who we decided sang in 'Braille'. Maria induces us to join in and performs along side Edwardo and their restaurant team. The group dynamic was what made the evening such fun and at the end of the night we could all sing in 'Braille' with Edwardo. 
Out yachts sit safely on mooring across the turquoise water near to Larry and Sheri's 'Ark'. They rocked up here by boat some years ago and as foreigners cannot buy land here. In fact no one can buy land here - it is bequeathed and passed on in the family. Larry and Seri live in a house-boat safely moored in Tapana Bay. He has since sunk ten moorings to encourage sailors to visit Sheri in the Ark and view and buy her artwork. Or just pay TOP10 (about $6.50) per night and stay anyway. 
This is not the only bay inhabited by people who have sailed in and never left. Blue Lagoon boasts a host who was a Michelin Chef. He has been here for over twenty years, is married to a local woman and has four children. The family have worked hard and now proudly welcome visitors to their island paradise powered by wind and sun and boasting five character filled 'fales' where your can kick back and stay right on the beach.
Friedel and Marta make us a wonderful lunch of local fish or tender Western Australian beef and we have one vegetarian - 'No worries!' Friedel sits with us but will not share a wine - he gave up drinking ten years ago when he also gave up smoking 100 cigarettes a day, his chefs' hat in an establishment owned by someone else and started to build his dream in Blue Lagoon.
We have left our yachts on this day in the protected waters of Hunga Lagoon and come by dinghy through the pass into Blue Lagoon. The weather is warm but the sea has been up for the past few days and the ride across is like riding the rapids so we have arrived rather damp, highly excited and happy. We leave even happier after sampling great food and some good New Zealand and Australian wines. 
The next day some of our crews are going deep sea fishing with Steve, who with his wife Caroline, run another excellent establishment in Hunga Lagoon where we have left our yachts. We had eaten at Ika Lahi on the previous night. Caroline is justly famous locally for her cuisine so we are beginning to feel that we may need some activity to offset all the calories. Oh yes - SAILING!
We are here to participate in a Rally and have to get tuned up so while the fishermen fish some of us set off to circumnavigate the small island of Hunga. This starts with a gentle work up to the northern end on seas that have now calmed, followed by a reach down the other side to a perfect beach where we stop for a swim and snorkel, before completing our days sail. We are constantly on the lookout for whales which are calving here at this time of the year but today we are unlucky, but only in that respect. 
The Rally does go on with winners, prizes, handicapping and good competition but it is more about the camaraderie and experience of meeting the locals and learning about this last Polynesian Kingdom. The program allows time for both with a lay day after each race day and a pre arranged function ashore after each race. The area is encircled by reefs so the waters are calm and while we were there the breezes were friendly. Even one participant who has never sailed said it was the most wonderful holiday experience. 'I have never, ever, ever been so relaxed on a holiday', she said.
Tonga is close and now has an easy four and a half hour flight in and out but once there the internal travel can be problematic. The small local hop from the main island to the sailing destination of Vavau is not reliable so there is always the chance that the flight will be cancelled. Fortunately we leave all the worry about that to the Mariner Boating team who accompany and run the event, prearrange all functions and excursions, and take care of the day to day details, while we kick back and have a wonderful holiday.
Yes we did see whales and 14 of our group went on an excursion and swam with these amazing creatures. We also saw dolphins, had good snorkelling, competitive fun races, met an eclectic mix of people who have washed up and never left and we certainly did not go hungry. 
Mariner Boating Holidays run this event annually.
For more information +61 2 9966 1244
email amy(at)marinerboating.com.au
Website:www.marinerboating.com.au
by maggie joyce
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PALMYRA, WA
