Letter from the Indies: British Virgin Islands

9:09 PM Thu 22 Jan 2009 GMT

'The Baths, Virgin Gorda' Ian & Andrea Treleaven

Andrea and Ian Treleaven continue their tales of sailing in the Caribbean

An area of 60 islands, the British Virgin Islands is a sailor's fantasy; with a constant wind of 15-25 knots, we can go where it takes us. Pirates once ruled these islands, hiding in the secluded bays and burying their treasure ashore.

Numerous bays and channels are named after Sir Francis Drake, a well known pirate who we were all led to believe in school was an English hero. The pirates, mainly English, were conveniently positioned in remote coves around all

Amongst the Bath bolders with Pauline - Ian & Andrea Treleaven

these islands to raid the Spanish Galleons returning to Europe, with all the gold and silver they themselves had stolen from the Indians of South and Central America. Now charter yachts are here in their hundreds (we have never seen so many in the one place) and no doubt they too still have the odd mutiny on board.

Pauline Christie joins us, and after all the formalities of checking in at Spanish Harbour on Virgin Gorda we take a taxi to the 'Baths' to experience the walk in. We find huge granite stones, some wedged on top of others creating tunnels and caves, and others litter the bays. How did these massive stones

Two boats and it’s a race - Ian & Andrea Treleaven

come to rest here in such a small area? It is unique, with blue sea lapping at the edge.

The coral atoll of Anegada 14nm to the north is flat with a reef that extends out for miles. Having claimed over 300 vessels, it is littered with wrecks. My first thoughts are "we won't be going there".

We do go - a wonderful sail with the sea a beautiful colour as it's quite shallow all the way. The only entrance is marked by buoys, thank goodness, as our electronic chart would have put us on the reef at the entrance. This atoll is very open to all weather and the wind is menacing at anchor, especially with over 40 charter

North Sound Virgin Gorda - Ian & Andrea Treleaven

yachts all squeezed into a very small area. No one minds; it's a beautiful place. Anegada is famous for big lobster, pink flamingoes and beautiful beaches, with snorkeling inside the reef on the northern coast. Although one of the biggest islands it has a population of only 250.

Jimmy Buffett the well known singer/guitarist famous for 'Margaritaville' and 'Cheeseburger in Paradise' cruises these waters but no one knows when he might just appear at a bar and put on an impromptu show. Unbeknown to us the big 100ft motor yacht at the entrance to the

bay was his. He came ashore that night and performed unannounced at the Anegada Reef Bar while we sat on board drinking Kahlua.

The anchorage in North Sound, Virgin Gorda, where Sir Francis Drake used to hide, becomes our base for a few nights. This sound is very large and is probably the best shelter in all the Virgins, in all weather. Close by are two mega yachts complete with helicopters owned by Microsoft directors; one is over 280ft long and the other is in battle ship colours. What does that tell you?!!! Maybe we should have invited them across to sort out our Vista problems!! Ashore is Bitter End Resort, well known to all yachties with

Little Dix Bay paradise - Ian & Andrea Treleaven

bars serving the rum drink of the BVI's known as 'Painkillers'.

Paradise is found in a horseshoe bay protected by a reef, with a resort ashore and room for only one boat. Ian is never one to be on the outside so in we go with clearance of only 25 cm below the keel. Little Dix Bay on the west side of Virgin Gorda becomes home for three days. Pauline and I snorkel amongst turtles, stingrays and a few coral fish on the dead reef. The coral is disappointing but then we are spoilt by the Pacific Ocean. Let's keep that a secret. Ashore iguanas wander the paths and on the water pelicans keep us amused by diving for fish, sometimes

Stingray - Ian & Andrea Treleaven

even in unison.

We almost become locals, dining ashore and frequenting the bars. Prices are keeping us sober but we feel sorry for the only19% occupancy rate - and this is high season. This appears to be the norm for all resorts and charter companies. Ian becomes a hero when his laser sailing school days came in handy rescuing a client of the resort. The boom hit the 85 year old's head while gibing and dumped him onto the reef.

Regulars tell us about the best snorkeling areas, so off we sail to explore the small islands north of Tortola. It turns out to be the best we have seen so far in the Virgins

Not my b....oat.JPG - Ian & Andrea Treleaven

with beautiful coloured fish and fan coral. We settle for the night off Marina Cay, famous for the best selling book and movie 'Our Virgin Island'. It is about the young English couple who purchased the island in the 1940s for $60 down. The bar is now famous for the singing pirate and the roll of the rrrrrrrrrrrrr's and the copious quantities of Pusser's rum he gives away. Pusser's is the original rum of the Royal Navy and was used to preserve Nelsons body.

As for the buried treasure, I will only be too happy to find my superannuation fund!!!!!!!

by Andrea and Ian Treleaven

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